NTwoO

What are the differences between these? Why would you consider the 3 of loeJLI then? It is a far older machine...

There is an S5 for sale in Belgium on 2dehands.be

TPU misschien?

So... I'm an absolute greeny when it comes to 3d printing. My first attempts with ABS went horribly wrong. After using some glue stick things were a little better, but despite using a climate chamber and having a door on my UM3, the parts still warped. Maybe it didn't help that the part was quite big. During one of my other first attempts with PETG I noticed that the stuff stuck to the glass sheet like the proverbial child snot to a wool jumper. This brought me on an idea. If I make a raft of 0.4 or 0.6 PETG and interlock it with the ABS, how will that work? Well, it is going very well indeed! The print is only half way, but showing no warping whatsoever. Is this a possible second alternative for the interlock? Below is a photo of the start of the interlock. So the part is completed and it is looking good! Sure I know that ABS is the devils hair and all that. It is smelly and it is a cantankerous temperamental material. In tests it fails to prove real strength. But... Well... It is cheap and I happen to have ended up with a decent supply from various online purchases. This might be my savior to put all that ABS to good use. The results are very good indeed! The bind with the glass sheet was impeccable . The final product showed virtually no warping. Removal of the interlock layer is a little more work, but it is also doable. The final part looked OK. The raft did not detach in one piece , but it is sacrificial in any case. In the image of the bottom it is clear that the first layer of ABS had a few strands that detached. This is because no glue or spray was used. The bind was very good, however. The images below show virtually no warping compared to the ABS only print. One little bug I noticed was that the slicer will crop the brim for the primary filament if it exceeds the perimeter of the print, but if the brim of the secondary material exceeds the print boundary, the slicer produces gcode that the printer reports as going out of bounds.

Got to say. The printer has been running quite intensively since I bought it. The biggest problem was some older filament I bought for cheap (well, cheap...). Having dual extrusion is very handy and I use it often. Printing with support or the interlocking of the new Cura are all very handy. The features that the 3 offer over the 2 are used often. The reliability a proper second hand unit with low mileage offers over an cheap ass new machine is just awesome!

I used this technique to make new end stops for my chairs. The stops are 30Eur for a chair and they are made from thin hollow plastic that wears out in no time. A copy with TPU on the bottom should be tough as nails and last a life time. Let's see how the interlock lasts. The left is the printed version. On the right is the factory model.

The horizontal expansion is only present if I use normal support. With the tree mode I could not find it.

That was the one, yes. Good that this thread was here. Helped me to find some of the problems.

Hi, I had similar problems with my printer. After printing a spiral print the error occurred. The cause seemed to be the collection of a layer of glassy like filament on the extruder. With this removed things were back to normal again. The spiral mode results in far less lifting, so any residue on the tip collects and bakes.

Hi, I am playing with support structures. The features in Cura are very nice to work with and I have been able to add support like I want to by only using PVA for the interface layer and such limit my use of PVA. Working with the PVA is clearly a matter of low humidity. Even though I have a box with a dehumidifier in it and I tried to keep the PVA as dry as possible the occasional pop is audible. To make sure that the PVA is extruding properly I printed a small part with PVA at 0.2. Things were working well with that. However if I print a knight for a chess piece then working at 0.1 or 0.06 the PVA extracts too slowly and doesn't extrude well. In Cura I see one can alter the support interface resolution. Is this wise? Does it work as one expects. Playing the layers in the preview does not show any noticeable differences in the printing of the interfaces. Thanks in advance for the help.

In the tree algorithm I see some peculiar behaviour. This is a close up of the Charybdis keyboard model. Small notches are visible in the close up below. Slicing this with a tree support shows these little branches(leaves?) in these gaps. Ramping up the minimum support size doesn't prevent this, Is there a way to prevent this? Adding support blocks does fix this, but it would have been nice if this could be managed with a parameter.

There are some very cool ideas in this release. Using TPU for moulded in feet is something I'm looking forward to. Those sticky silicone feet work well it they stay put... But it is not always the case.

Mesh tools... Perfect! EDIT: Checked this and it works perfectly!

I found this model on thingiverse and would like to make it, but the two components are not selective individually. Sorry for this noob question, but can I split this with Cura or should it be done with another tool? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5934640

Ah! Sounds perfect! I'll check it out sometime.

The algorithm looks nice! It would be great if one prints with cheap material to only have the support material between the model and the rest of the tree. That way one can use the expensive support material more sparingly. So to clarify the tree is mainly constructed from the main material with only a few layers support material between the model and the rest of the tree. Obviously if the base of the tree is on the model it should also be with a few layers support material.

That was my thought as well. Luckily I found a comfortably priced 3 with virtually no hours on it and a bag of extra nozzles. Me be happy!

I ended up getting a virtually unused 3 with 3 extra hot ends for the price of a low hour 2+. Seeing that I will need ABS for higher temp usage I also bought a climate chamber for very little. The printer works great! I'm very happy

Thanks, man! I'll look into a 2+ with low mileage.

Thanks for the response! Are there specific things to pay attention to with older models? Are there other advantages with a 3 such as rigidity or better quality parts that could make it worth while?

Hi, I just joined the community to check out some tips and tricks for the Ultimaker printers. In the past I looked at the printers, but never dived into buying one. My only additive production tool is an AC/DC TIG welder. Since recently, though, I've been considering buying myself a 3D printer. The units of Ultimaker look like decent units and since I want to print stuff and not print parts for my 3D printer, a more complete and functional unit certainly makes sense. Since I'm based in the Netherlands, the supply of second hand Ultimakers look to be quit decent. Some questions have arised so far in my seach: Is an older 3 with high work time and multiple (relatively new) nozzles a better buy than a 2+ with low mileage? What are the advantages of spending more on an S3 or a newer 2+? What does a second hand Ultimaker offer over a new Bambulabs X1 Carbon or similar printer? How do these two compare over a couple of years?