Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


burtoogle last won the day on July 27

burtoogle had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

475 Excellent

Personal Information

  • Industry

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012512340-Shell-settings
  2. If you use a small gap (i.e. 0.1mm) you will find that the brim does still mostly touch the model but is easier to remove. Surprisingly, it does still help reduce the model's corners curling even when there is a visible gap between the inside of the prim and the model perimeter. This is the model that inspired the brim gap feature. Printed using PLA, I noticed that the corners on the side tended to lift from the build plate unless I used a brim but the brim was hard to remove without looking ugly so I tried using a wide skirt with a very small gap and it still helped reduce the curling of the corners. I am guessing that a brim helps reduce curling by reducing the temperature change between the layers at the edge of the model. I have also noticed when printing PETG that corner warping is greatly reduced when the bed temp is increased so for that material using a high bed temp (at least 75 deg) and a brim with gap gives me little warping at the corners.
  3. Initial bottom layers specifies the number of skin layers at the very bottom of the print, i.e. those layers that are touching the buildplate (or raft). Bottom layers specifies the number of skin layers that are immediately above air (or support). Top layers specifies the number of skin layers that have air (or support) immediately above them. Hope this helps.
  4. Not terribly reliable using paper. Far better is to get a set of feeler gauges and then set the nozzle to, say, 0.5mm above the build plate and then drive the nozzle around manually and use the feeler gauge to check the height in various places and adjust the height screws as appropriate. Very quick to do. I always print on blue tape so I just add 0.1mm to the height to account for the thickness of the tape.
  5. One obvious change to make is to use wider wall lines. I have printed spiralized vases in PETG using 0.6mm wide lines from a 0.4mm nozzle and they are quite watertight and not easily damaged.
  6. Can you please provide some more info? A screen shot or even better, the project file (do File->Save) and attach the .3mf file. thanks.
  7. Ah, OK, I missed the fact that you had a zillion bottom layers. No problem, happy printing!
  8. That gcode is weird, could it be the zoffset thingy that you are using is causing a problem?
  9. Thanks for the file, unfortunately, it uses an unknown printer type so I cannot load the project, just the models. With the project, I can't see what settings you are using. Anyway, I sliced the model using my standard setup and the spiralization looks OK. Could you please attach the gcode file? That is almost as useful as the project file, thanks.
  10. Hi, please supply the project file. Do File->Save and then attach the .3mf file to this thread. Thanks.
  11. Thanks for the file, yes, I can see what you mean. I don't know if there is a workaround for that in UM Cura but my Cura builds have a setting to prime all the extruders on the first layer. Here I am only displaying the extruder 2 lines and you can see the center of the prime tower is extruder 2 not 1. If you wish to try my Cura, you can find the builds at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 Please read the README.md file there before using.
  • Create New...