jaysenodell

One STL I found that was like this... I contacted the originator. Their solution was that I paid for the corrected version. It may be innocent. My experience is otherwise.

As to “why a raft”… Because of stupid creality build plates. 0.3mm variance is a problem when I’m making things that have to be flat and parallel top and bottom plane (cnc fixtures, spacers for mechanical pieces, etc). With the raft I just remove the raft cruft and I’m good to the design spec. Without the raft I get to pray that my flattening efforts are parallel to the upper plane. God help me of my the bottom isn’t flat by design. hope that makes sense.

Sounds like your infill likely isn’t solid and all the mess is infill booger string that got pulled off the model and fell to the plate (stuck to the noz and got knocked off). Not a petg thing but a too fast thing from my experience. Even if it is just petg strings still a speed and extrusion problem. @Slashee_the_Cow is a go slow advocate and following her advice I’ve managed to eliminate much of my “it should all stick” issues (with the exceptions of supports which @GregValiant fixed). It all comes down to giving the material time to stick and cool before you pull it off with a direction change.

I only get that when something has gone “missing” and the extruder is printing into nothingness. This is normally a support vanishing or a part from a multipart print moving to a new location. Some telltale signals for me are lots an extruded material on one edge of a part. Another possibility is a series of large bridges that are failing in the first couple layers. This should be pretty noticeable as poor quality finish. This is the kind of thing that timelapse camera systems really help solve.

redit says it's the standard sprite. But redit is only correct a small fraction of the time redit thinks redit is correct. If it is the sprite, you can do the service on it pretty simple. I need to do it just to ruin my weekend of printing. I'm going to presume you wanted to order about a dozen replacements so you'd be good for a month or so but weren't capable of telling anyone what you wanted with a better description than "little bit of tube" so they had no idea what you wanted, but how do you know? Close but more me being unable to get any filament to load and nothing "up the snout" to clean it out. Had to pull it all appart and found the tube with all kinds of pla and petg globbed around it. top and bottom. Started looking for it online. nothing. picked it up and wipped it with a towel and all the globs fel off. Safe for now! I assume its just the same stuff the bowdens are made out of. I'm ignoring it for now.

I'm surprised @Slashee_the_Cow did start with the same suggestion she gave this to fix my mear identical issue with this. In my case (ender 3 s1 pro) it was a combo of slower print and more flow into the initial layer.

Because the creator of my printer provides filament and they barked at me running a different brand I've been sticking with the c-word filament. It isn't cheap unless you but it in stupid quantities. Once I feel I have a better understanding of how to make things work without having to dial the slashee phone, I will likely start trying other brands. But sparkle booger string... nah. back to the topic... So open a new project, create a quality profile, go to each setting that has a material override and pull set it to use the material setting. What happens if I don't have an override for that setting in a material def? just gets ignored?

Creality sprite? Easy to disassemble and put back together. Not much you can hurt. There is a section of plsatic tube that has no part number I can find but seems to like to hord stupid bits of gunk. Ask me how I know.

remember I'm using c-word filament becuase ... I'm stupid and like to keep my issues limited to one vendor! I've had to change initial layer flow between petg and pla. Also the colors in pla seem to want different flow rates on iniial layer to get stuck on the plate but I need to keep walls "lower" on the high flow needing red and white as it seems to keep the elephant footing down but gives me lots of stick via the rest of the layer. But now I'm wondering how much I'm really tweaking each of these if the material settings aren't actually populating between meterial changes. I did create a new "overall profile" for the big tubes as so much of that was specific to the 1.0 noz and increased speed/layer thinckness. Well shoot. Now I need to open a project and see what all changed when I change materials.

I like my approach... open new spool, use entire spool. i need to be more responsible in my printer usage.

Ok. I read that through but will need to read it again a dozen more times. Let me validate the one thing that is distracting me... I need to do this for every setting that I override in the material definition? Or is this something that I need to create a custom quality profile to default to the "always use material defs" to do? I think this is what is boiling my brain right now.

Well now... That was fantastic! Not only did the supports stick but the interface is better than my build plate or the top surface. I'm not considering rafts for everything with your little post processor as the secret sauce to get flat bottoms. As to the actual issue, I think your original "wider bases" was the answer. I actually had to scrape them off the plate. I'm marking that as the answer. Thank you!

Well now. That was fun! The only issue I had was nozzle drip resulting in no booger string post resume. Here you can see the missing chunk of pla as I've started to load the petg. Yelow booger string is going down now. Seems happy. Stil don't know how this thing is so quiet. Maybe I'm losing my hearing.... I am old-ish. Maybe I started the rum at 8am. Who knows...

Well then... it might have been the internal support trees that were the noise. other than the fans, this thing is almost quiet. It isn't this quiet when doing the big tubes (giant ovals 8" tall). For those that stumble on this and are mac people. Download your GregValiant scripts. Open terminal (cmd-space and type terminal hit enter). Then do the following jaysen@mba13 Downloads % cd jaysen@mba13 ~ % cd Downloads jaysen@mba13 Downloads % cp AddCuraSettings.py ~/Library/Application\ Support/cura/5.7/scripts jaysen@mba13 Downloads % The key thing is that the cura config folder is Library/Application Support/cura/<version> Thanks Greg. I have clearly added that to my list of "why the fork didn't I have that before" tools. Put it in 5.6 since I still use that too.

@GregValiant, I loaded your file with no change other than disabling the purge feature as this thing will do that on it's own. Other than my normal petg not wanting to stay down problem (which is odd becuase I had this dialed in). on the possitive side, all supports are stil attached and nothing is sliding around the plate like a canadian living near a pond in winter. the print is also much quieter than normal to. no servo thrashing. So what did you really do differently? 5.7 said 800+ changes but I can't find a way do compare projects side by side as it closes one project to open another. Is there a project comparison feature I can use to compare these and see how your settings are different than mine?

I was just going to add that "new" does not mean functional. And that "assembly", even when limited, means that you still have to verify all 90° are 90° and all things are properly tensioned. I spent days chasing a too loose build plate carriage on my E3S1P. As to the USB printing thing... i will hide my little toys that solve those problems and have names with golfball shaped letters very rapidly. Just remember that YOU STARTED IT! Feel free to abuse your assistant moderator powers and fix this message exercise restraint and not "fix" someone else's right to post reasonable content. 😛

I think I see what you are doing there.. (in the g-code). This should be fun! Printing!

Gust getting this started. But to be clear, layer 82 is the start of the PLA? Seems to me that the roof is 78 and 82 is the start of the wall. Does the script count backwards? I have read the code because of the pesky need for income and those people that keep demanding that I answer my phone... shall look at it now before I hit print...

On mine I think it is more like 12 pauses. But I think I can reduce it by pushing the trees to be "on build plate when possible". Nope leaves 2 inside. those I can block out as that gap is bridgable. Mrs banned me from overniggt printing last night so I'm just getting it rolling this morning. I'll let you know how it goes.

If vague let me illistrate with my actual throught process material jaysen_pla inherits generic_pla { temp 195; initial temp 200; buid plate temp 50; initial build plate temp 60; speed 80; initial speed 20; } material c-word_pla_red inherits jaysen_pla { initial speed 15; enable jerk control true; jerk accel 5; } material c-word_pla_blue inherits jaysen_pla { speed 55; initial flow 110; } The idea being that if I change a setting in jaysen_pla, c-word_pla_red and c-word_pla_blue get that setting updated unless they explicitly override it. Realisticaly, I need to have something that is jaysen_start that is infront of the jaysen_pla to limit the printer stupid defaults. Maybe that is a rewrite of the printer definition to limit the speeds*? *Dang you @Slashee_the_Cow! here I am trying to slow this thing down when everyone else is trying to go faster! See what you've done? See!?!

Oh I’m a sucker ^H^H^H^H^H^H^H willing beta guy. On the purge front I have (dis)advantage of a e3s1p from C-word which means ru out sensor and direct drive extruder. That SOB purges all in its own where it wants, the second I hit “continue” on the stupid proprietary interface. On the plus side, I don’t have to think about how much to purge. On the down side I have to zero all that out and let it do its thing or I wind up with booger string all over the build. which is my long winded way of say “hot damn! I get to play with a new thing! Thanks!” I started a print of the clip before your replies so it will be a few hours before I can get the loaded. I’ll deal with the ugly but will happily run this for the next set.

I've had this problem with trees but have been able to ignore it until now. Basically they don't "stick" and get ripped off. Not all of them, but generally "the same ones" in mulitple runs so it has to be a setting thing. In the attached file its the trees supporting the roof on the X/Y+ side of the eraser to the first internal support (screw hole to brace). What settings get tweaked to improve the tree "stay-put-iness" without making them impossible to remove? sink_front_clip_04_PETG_Standard_Quality.3mf

I'm sure I'm doing something incorrectly and would like to understand how to "do it right". I have create definitions for my "chinese manufacturer that starts with C" filament. These are based off of the "generic" class of materials. Using the material settings plugin I've been overridding setting for speed, temp, etc to get better prints for each variation of the filament. I seem to be running into an issue with "base settings" based on how I'm making these changes. The move to 5.7 seems to have made it so the material overrides are not consistently applying when I switch materials. This may be because... I did not make a "master class" for maufacturer/pla|abs|petg in which to set my globals. This means I do not have consistency in my individual definitions. So my simple quesiton: refresh my understading on the best way to manage custom profiles based on material that are CONSISTENTLY applied when you select the material for printing? The key elements that I'm trying to ensure for the material are: Temps for printing and build plate(general and initial layers with count for initial layers) Flow rates for intial, outer wall, infill. Cooling ... fans speen with initial speed and regular speed at height/layer All the print speed settings becuase slashee has converted me to a slow, contoled jerk (you'd be surprised how much different blue, white and red behave with "c word" PLA and speed is the answer)(and I bet she's giggling at the way I said that) My instinct is that I need a "c-word generic PLA" that drives red, blue, white, black, etc and make global changes there. Then tweak for color specific "things". But does the inheritance work if I update the generic to a new print speed later? Hope this makes sense. Probably not. If not let me know and I'll try again.

I'm a Ender 3 S1 Pro guy. New to 3D printing and with a little bit of help from the folks here this thing has been pretty dang bullet proof. I don't think I would get the pro again. and I can see some reaons to go with "not the Ender 3" but for the price and as a someone new to 3d printing, I think it is a decent choice. Issues I've had: The aluminum bed is not flat. This is a "normal problem" with creality. Prints fine, just expect to sand a bit off any surface you need flattened or prep for a glass plate. Stupid "pro" screen is stupid. Don't get the pro models and things work better for sending prompts to the control screen and such. bed level drift if you sneeze. Just don't sneeze. there are "print your own" solutions to this that I haven't done yet. I change nozzels so often that I probably won't ever do the weel locks. Wire harness shortness. The wireharness doesn't allow for folks like me to so things ... like I do. Meaning I'm having to make new sections to move things like filiment runout detetor and screen to alternate locaitons. God forbid I tray to increase the print volume. Not really opensource. As much as it claimes to be opensource... it's not. I want to build a bigger print volume. But with the pro module it's propietary code that I can't get access to. So... voron may be in my future. but that's a different problem for me thanks to klipper.

Use the thingiverse plugin and just add them directly from cura.