jaysenodell

That should lead to a file open error somewhere. While it may not result in a seg or term, it's no beuno. Would be better to properly disable loading of the image. But this is all purely academic. Still seems like a less than good idea to me.

You can't mix them. The M104 should have a temp setting (SX) or nothing. The correct lines should be M104 S0 G91 I think there is something wrong with the Cura settings in your end code though. From your original statement about end code that I didn't really digest at that time... So I think that spurous M104 is in there in the printer config. I'd remove it and I think you'd be good.

Crashes on mine as well Couple things I noticed. Something is going wrong in here: G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F3000 E-0.8 ;LAYER_COUNT:100 ;LAYER:0 M107 ;MESH:xyzCalibration_cube.stl Not sure what, but when executed from SD that effects a G28 XY action from the firmware. Here's my Octoprint log for the sequence just before I killed power to the printer Send: M117 99% L=-/- Recv: ok Send: M27 Recv: SD printing byte 354405/356832 Recv: ok Recv: T:209.96 /210.00 B:60.02 /60.00 @:41 B@:26 Send: M27 Recv: SD printing byte 354816/356832 Recv: ok Send: M27 Recv: SD printing byte 355255/356832 Recv: ok Recv: echo: too long extrusion prevented Those lines turn out to be: M140 S0 M107 M104 G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit I don't think M104 G91; will ever end well on any printer! I think that's the crash anyway.

I'm on the same firmware (specificaly HWv24S1_301_SWV2.0.8.28F4_F401_FDM_LASER). I'm assuming you did the control panel update as well. I know there were tech notes on that being needed to resolve some issues. I don't have crashes on sd card prints. I don't do them much any more. If you want, I'll run the gcode that crashes and see if it's the code or the hardware. I'm mid-nozzel swap to 1mm. What size are you using and I'll tune for that.

No, but there could be something in the printer definition. do you use an intermediary like octoprint or is this printed via the ender firmware? I ask because I found that sometimes the Creality firmware is … unpredictable? I was a bit surprised by the massive difference between gcode flavors. GRBL was just becoming easy and then this marlin comes along… there is a cheatsheet on the marlin site. Not bookmarked on my phone but a google for marlin gcode will get you there. problem is that creality firmware doesn’t really stick to it 100%…

Same. Are you using SD or something like Octoprint to get the Cura output to the printer? Confirm you selected the printer as "Creality3d" then "Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro" when adding the printer. Seems... sparse. Should be more like G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positioning ; retract filament to prevent snot G1 E-10.0 F1200 G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z That said, I did tweak mine a bit from stock. Let me add a new S1Pro for comparison. Here is the 100% stock end gcode G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positioning G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z Which version of Cura are you using?

It may be TRUE and FALSE in code land as well. Often all caps for constants. Might be worth a shot to ensure readability.

I know this isn't an thing most folks want to to, but if you build from souce... Basically, Cura as an open source project, you are able to download the sourcecode, find the place where it loads the image, comment that line of code out, execute the config comand followed by the build and it won't be able to load the image. I would suggest that not havig a slapsh screen is a good way to wind up with a pile of "not loading" issues as you can't see if the code is executing on start up or not. If you like launching from shells with logging into stdout then no stratup screen makes sense to me. otherwise it's a UX no no.

Having no used nothing other than freecad, I can’t compare it to any other tools. But my mental process is a combination of tool/sold profile building, subtractive manufacturing, and solid unions. What I man is… I start with a basic profile. That could be a primitive solid or a 2d wire frame that I pad to a 3D solid. I then “tool” features into it via sketches (profiles that are rotated, slotted, lofted, etc). Sometimes I need to use additive functions to extend my solid. At times I’ll create multiple parts. Using the same methods. Once I have a base object I “fuse” it to make it easier to work with. I’ve recently started using spreadsheets to drive object parameters instead of “hard coded” constraints. This has made sharing dimensions much easier across mating surfaces or aligning parts. I think my furniture and boat building background makes it easier for me to see a practical (to me) workflow for freecad. How does fusion work?

I've been using freecad exclusively. I'm not what I would call an expert, but I have managed to get the output to be what I need witout too much trouble. It may be my "this it my first tool" experience, but I don't find the basics too tough. If there ia any thing specific that is problematic, let me know. Maybe I can offer some assistance.

I use drums spindles from my boat building days. The demel is just a standard “variable speed” with flex shaft. The media is from Amazon. Just set the dremel on 1 and use a light hand. A 3mm fillet needs a 2mm drum very lightly dragged around this flange. It will dig fast. Much faster than it does in gelcoat/fiberglass.

Roof and floor where ticked. For all intents and purposes, the roof became a new bed but with much better adhession than my bed has ever had. Ender 3 S1 Pro, 0.6mm hardened snoz installed Octopi Cura 5.6 Creality PLA Printing at 200 I would love dual extruders. Anyone want to send me one for free? Until I can make this bad habit cost neutral there will be limited options for "more extruders". @Slashee_the_Cow: Z distance may be something to try. I can tollerate some droop, but not much. I'm running into this issue with mating surfaces in alignment rings. Speed. there aren't a lots of top/bottom as these are cylinders. Let me try that one too. Support flow/density: I'm thinking I can cut this WAY back as the support is very hard to remove from these things. Might even make up for slowing things down a bit? Trees on cylinders seem to be ... silly. That said maybe the probem before was that the overhang wasn't 30mm. Let me try that later. I have the tools. My goal is to need less of them to have a finished product though. My best solution so far is a "hot knife", sanding block, then 1k grit on a slow dremmel for the fillet. Not really something that is sustainable later though.

I’m making “stuff” that needs to be halfway decent looking/finished and simple to get that way. Supports are killing me. Here’s a flange that requires “finished surface” on both sides and supports. As you can see, I can’t get the dang roof to come off the print. Without the roof the print quality is bad. Any suggestions on how to tweak supports to make the support less aggressively attached to my prints? Thanks!

Increased retraction to 1mm on a flange print (attached) and the webbing is reduced-ish. It’s much finer. i have questions for another thread though so more about flange printing shortly. Back to retraction… what’s my danger here? My brain tells me I may have low booger output on the next attempt to lay material which would be bad for short segments. Anything else?

My coworkers call that "Jaysening the fool proof solution". Many an developer has cried at my desk.

Ok… a different project that I can’t share here is doing the same thing. Lots of “hair” blowing down wind of the cooling fan. Hair seems to originate from lift points. What is supper fun is the fan will suck the hair into the cage. Here I was thinking the spaniel had been napping on the printer but maybe this thing is just eating it’s own boogers.

I say huge in the context of "WTF IS THIS!?!?!???!!!!" That and the need to clean all the nubs off from the strings. It's proving to be a bit more effort than expected for a problem that didn't exist in the last runs prior to Z hop. Is there something with the Z hop that would cause this? Do I need to increase retraction amount to reduce these a bit? I did not adjust wipe nor randomize seams on this one either. I expect that last one might exasperate this a tad bit.

This is new, but it’s also the first time I’ve run this large of a job. Also the first time I’ve intentionally tried need in Z hopping I started noticing strings very early in the print but that seemed normal. 23 hour later I changed filament because I didn’t estimate usage well and assumed it was an issue with the black pla and humidity or something. That was wrong as you can see the red is stringy too. Now remember I’m new to this so expect me to miss the obvious. I’m guessing this is a retraction setting problem based on my research. What I’m not sure is how to best figure out which of the settings I should be looking at since there seem to be a number of options here. Point me in the right direction please! The 3mf and gcode are in the cura section. The “random flicking of infill” thread. They are not small.

This seems to have stopped the click on these if I assume that this slice would have been a clicker. I have a post-it to set it until I get all my defults updated. I'm a bit annoyed that I can't seem to get MY defaults to be the defaults all the time. maybe I'm looking at it wrong though.

This is most likely a compatibilty fault with the old version of the software running on a newer OS. Basically the code for 3.5.6 gets confused and just quits. You should NOT be using 3.5.6.

That and mesh tools. Not everyone has the mesh tools extension installed once I figured out how you all were getting those features I added that 🙂 Attached are the 3mf and massive gcode for the 26hr print I just kicked off. For the record, the person that I'm making these for is thrilled with how this is going so have a virtual beer on me! Tuna Tube v4 test at 75p.gcode Tuna Tube v4 test 75p.3mf

Confirmed. Kind of. This one is burried in another level of settings. That appears to be "expert". Let me finish my emergancy edits on these parts and get a new print started.

Z tension and setting seem right. but before I get into that… Ender 3 S1 Pro Firmware vrs 2.0.8.28 (F4 F404) 50mm calibration cube measures 49.99-50.01 Bed does have 0.2 dish but mesh levels it fine. Z offset is a bit aggressive because of that bet dish. Back to your comments. I can turn the Z screws (dual motors) with effort. I’m not sure I would say it’s significant but it is what I would expect for steppers. The linking belt is tight. Gantry level is difficult because of the dish. My last measure showed it level but today I’m off by 0.12 which is the L/R bed difference at Y0 where I tried to measure so I think I’m still level. Gantry has NO vertical play. Checked my defaults … Z hop is OFF. I will enable. I assume the others are off as they are hidden. I’m slow to enable advance settings until I need them. This print completed fine. After layer 250 no more flicking. I need to make refinements so I’ll run it again tomorrow with the Z hop changes and see how it does.

I think I know what I need to change to fix my little problem but I want to consult the oracles of Curia before I do something stupider than normal. On more than a few of my jobs I'll here the unmistakable sound of the snoz ticking the top of the infil or support (mostly infill) as the snoz travels over a section of the print. When this happens early it can pull things off the bed. May do that if the print is small base as well. It always does it with the same code over multiple runs, but not on multiple slices of the same STL (no other changes). I can't find a pattern. To recap: snoz hits infill and support crap sometimes not predictable will happen within a "bad" gcode run multiple times will not always happen on a single STL that is sliced multiple times (slice A bad, slice B good, slice C good, slice D bad, etc) Because of the last two items, I have a feeling this is a settings issue more than a printer problem. Suggestions on what to look at here. edited to add: I'm mid print on the attached gcode. It is hitting the "base" every 15 layers for 3-5 layers (hit it 199-204 this round). Seems to be right before the move from the base to the tube section. I can't pin it down more than that. It isn't "every 15 layers" but it is more than 10, less than 20. I don't have a 3mf because this is a disposable run. Can get the defaults general defaults but can not garantee the exact same settings (on the line above were I say "multiple slice" it is the same 3mf). MF'er just ticket it again on layer 208. I guess it is less than 10 layers.... I just watched it hit the wall travelling from base to tube so that's definitely happening. Tuna Tube v4 Base.gcode

On Mac, go to the applications folder and rename the application to something like “UlriMaker Cura 5.6” Not sure how to avoid conflicts in preferences as I’m not at home to validate a method