jaysenodell

I've run 18 prints today and I tracked the "variance". 3:05 seconds. This was on a "34 minute" estimation with the "exact time" taken from my octoprint log. That 3:05 the exact time it takes for G28 XY M190 S65 G28 G0 Z10.0 F3000 G0 X0 Y0 M109 S210 G1 .... ;; Draws a line down the side then back up. That said, Octo indicate 4 different completion times that varied from 28min to 90min for these jobs. I suspect there is somehing in firmware limiting the printer compared to the settings you are using in cura.

Fun nugget, the UI says “yep, this section would have something but you don’t trust yourself to see it”. although… maybe that’s not an options for “draft” mode? Or because I have retraction off. That’s it. Retraction is off. Have it now. What a moron.

Sure… make a suggestion that would simplify my troubleshooting. Bah! once again, I need to ask, is that in expert/all settings? I’ve looked for that and couldn’t find anything resembling prime other than “flow for prime towers”

This is not “the best print” but most recent… wipe 0 coast false 2mm walls 0.6mm height retraction false those voids align with layer starts/stops. All I can think of is that I need “prime” in the snoz for a few seconds before the start. I see the SAME thing on layer 0 as well.

Ironically the cap is exactly 20mm high so there's a perfect test. I definately need to reduce the wall count as I'm basically printing a solid infill at this point. Also need to use way less wipe distance; there are some underextrudes on z starts (I see them on layer start but not really visiable since I'm using radom z seam). I am seeing a bit of temp wobble on long wall runs (199.1). I this will work fine given the 3hr reduction on this part. I need to run a few more test prints on this though. I'll keep you updated. Cap_10_PLA.3mf

Has to be a milk bowl. but is seems more like a disc golf thing.

Well fine. I shall simply chop a tube at 2cm and see how it explodes. I'm also thinking I need to increase my "hop" distance to reduce the snoz smack on infill. The Z hop at 0.2mm is no prevening the snoz from removing the top layer of infill.

My misunderstanding. That said, I do like mesh tools for telling me when I've completely made a mess of my STL. I fought with a print for a bit until I realized StC was using something "not built in". Then I was able ID the problem, to go back to FreeCAD and fix it. Well done.

So I'm thinking (which is dangerous) why do I need 4 top/bottom layers when each layer 0.6mm thick. Same with wall layers. Do I have room for speed optimization here by reducing wall/bottom/top?

In the boat world we call say “this is a good 10’ at 10knot finish” or “that’s at good show room finish” for those trailer queens that get waxed everyday. I specialize in 1/4mi@70knot. I always tell folks up front that no one wants to spend the money for a show room finish. No one has argued with me yet. I still think you should make a flaming headlight. That news report would be worth turning the TV on to hear.

The end prints are large oval tubes in the 200x180x1200 range (some shorter). Tube being key. They are hollow inerior. I'm using the cubes in an effort to ensure I have the printer dialed in before I start blowing through media (each tube set is about one spool). With the 0.6 it was 24hr per section (three sections), I need to try to get it down closer to 24hr for the whole thing. I have moved my test cube up to 50mm to be more real. maybe move it to 100mm... Lowering temps is resulting in some bed adhesion issues (as predicted). Ran some "bottoms only" tests for Z offset. My personal opinion is that strict measurements are great in a lab, but sometimes you have to look that the results. Added 0.06mm more space between snoz and bed to get less "push" on the edges but still have 100% closure between lines.

Nice! I have to admit, a flaming headlight would be a bit more "florida man" though. No?

Then I would need to stop printing things!

Hmm.. fan at 100% already. With 0.4 and 0.6 Was runing 210/200 and 65/60 initial/subsequent with good results. Since I can't "up the fan" would lowering the initial temps be viable. The extruder show no flucturations on temp with the 1.0 when priting. I have the "upgraded" sprite direct drive on this (ender 3 s1 pro). Even when I was trying to increase the print speed to 100mm/s the temp was rock solid. I think the largest fluctuation I noted was 0.5°. I do think I have my Z too low for this noz. The initial layer is super squished. I have to pry the PLA off even after the bed has readeched room temp. As far as flatness.. it's an ender. I have the "it's withing acceptable limits" warp. I've been avoiding "fixing it" because the ABL mesh has worked around it well enough so far.

See... that's the kind of thing I'm talking about! the less I have to the think, the more likely I am to not fork it up! Thank you for that!

@ahoeben, the "give you the finger" in my message was, as @Slashee_the_Cow suggested, my horrible attempt at humor. I've been tring to print a cross section of a model I built and, for the life of me, can not get it to split in any tool i try. FreeCAD won't export the cross section view. So when I saw "split model" in your mesh tools I was all excited until... Now that I understand WHY it was refusing to cooperate I am going to just go back and pout.

Well this is fun.. I can’t get past layer 8 before the infill is torn apart by the nozzle. You can hear it snaking the hardened previously laid infill as it lays a new line in the same layer. that said, you can still see the shrunken bottom layers. I did slow the head down as well. It’s interesting that the shape is so convex. You can see it was stuck to the bed like the government is to my paycheck. This is creality pla that I’ve been using since day one. Only real change is big nozzle. Is it unrealistic to expect the ability to print and 0.6mm layer with a 1.0mm noz?

Let me making that a 50mm cube and see if it is better. Please hold. Likely need to do the same with the temp tower too. this little one is unhappy.

Setting up for "bulk printing" with 1.0mm nozzle. Bulk in this case is large objects not so much large quantity. I have things generally working ok until I try to optimize for "print big faster". But that I mean upping the layer thickness to 0.6mm which should be well within the scope of a 1.0mm noz. The problem that I'm seeing is that as I increase the layer thickness the "top/bottom" layer shinks in the XY by about the thickness of the Z change from default 0.32mm layer thickness. I've attached a 3mf from a run of a 20mm cal cube with layer at 0.6mm. Pictures of cube. The wall, top, and bottom quality are fine with the exception of the shinkage that should obvious. Any suggestions? 10mm Calibration Cube - 1.0mm PLA.3mf

Ah! So if you click “split” and it gives you the middle finger, then it’s not happening because the model is a single STL that I imported not a stack of STLs. is that right?

FYI, this stuff will discolor in water. Even after 24hr cure. So chem test it before you use it on something important.

How the hell did you cut that up? Give me a link to a tutorial or something. My dim mind can’t figure that out and I’ve been trying to do this for a week (on my own models).

Not about print qualtiy exactly, but ensuring prints are always what you thing they are... I'm apparently turning into to nozzel swapper since I'm too cheap to buy 6 printers (0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, 2x1.0 would be ideal). Right now I push everything through octoprint which cura handels beautifully. The one thing that I keep doing is "losing" the nozzel size based gcode. Mostly because I'm using a file structure that is project based and all the gcode for a part lands in the same folder. Cura just uses an STL name for the file which overwrites the last gcode I put there. This isn't much of a problem as I still have the 3mf files and can just make the adjustments. This gets a bit annoying when I need to make more advanced "nozzle diamater" adjustments for temp, speed, but that's on me to manage the nozzle size profiles better (I think). I was thinking that I need to adopt some type of naming/folder structure that has nozzel/material/etc included to help me manage the aparently larger number of variations I'm going to have for my parts. I'm pretty sure this is a "Jaysen is stupid" problem, but I would welcome some insight from more experianced people making "small scale production" runs. Thanks in advance.

I only launch games when there too much drinking or I’m losing. Because I’m old and play gin, solitaire and the occasional poker, launching requires picking all 52 cards or spending $us3 on a new deck. 😛

that section is the "end code" of your pretiner config. you need to edit the printer setting and fix it. you have an M104 added to the first line of the ending code. That will fix your problem. Yeah yeah yeah. You are right. I was overly simplifying becuase I was looking at the specific section which was turning of the hotend (S0). Thank you. In this case I'm damn near certina this whole thing is typos in startup and ending code. I had to head out with the boss lady before I could dive into the extra home, but there's something off there too. The axes home drop a prime line, then go nuts with another XY home. Then it starts to print the cube no issues. There are a lot of repeated" commands (G92 E0) but I can't seem to see anything that really does this. manual execution line by line seems to work OK. Just ran the first several layers through octo... ran perfectly with no homing on after then the full G28. So that may be an issue with the firmware and this particular gcode.