Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Printing Soft PLA with heavy retractions (using Robert's feeder)

Recommended Posts

Hi, I'm trying to get a successful Soft PLA print where heavy retraction is necessary.  I've been able to use all the topic posts here (and from YouMagine posts for Robert's feeder) to get pretty good results - Thank you to all.    I'm using the combo Robert/geek feeder (by sfriedri) with settings below.   This would work for something like an iphone cover but my work requires heavy retractions.  

The prints are being used to make plaster molds for clay - tiles of mini houses/landscapes.  I'm trying to avoid printing in regular PLA and re-cast in silicone. Has anyone had success with similar printing using soft PLA or NinjaFlex?  Going to make a quicker test tile and try a slightly longer yoke for a bit more pressure.

Material:  Orbi-Tech PLA Soft (from MatterHackers)

Settings in Cura:

0.1 layers

20 mm/s speed

200 mm/s travel

20% infill

Settings on UM2:

235 C nozzle

45 C bed

Retraction: 35 mm/s & 6.5mm

No oil

Green prints are regular PLA, Red is soft PLA









Edited by Guest

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

DEfinititely put oil on the filament - it won't hurt anything. I thought the oil might make holes or pockets in the print but it doesn't.

I would try using the feature in cura "cut off bottom" or whatever it's called and practice/experiment with printing those last few layers only. I had to go down to even 10mm/sec I think and a little hotter - 240C to get zero underexturions. And one drop of oil every meter or so and let the filament hang loose to the floor.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Any mineral oil will work. Use a light oil.

So for example: baby oil, 3-in-1 oil, sewing machine oil, penetrating oil.

Food oils are not recommended but should work fine (they can go rancid). Oils with additives like detergents (WD40) not recommended either.

Drip the oil on the filament before it goes into the bowden. One drop is enough to coat the whole bowden. Maybe slide it in and out 3 times if you have the latest "plus" feeder or if you have iRoberti feeder.

Then add two drops of oil for every meter so that it is continuously coated. I uncoil the filament and it hangs down like a long string about a meter down and make sure it's coated every 20 minutes of printing.

I just used ninjaflex with UM2+ last week and it worked great.

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • Ultimaker Cura | a new interface
      We're not only trying to always make Ultimaker Cura better with the usual new features and improvements we build, but we're also trying to make it more pleasant to operate. The interface was the focus for the upcoming release, from which we would already like to present you the first glance. 
        • Like
      • 130 replies
    • "Back To The Future" using Generative Design & Investment Casting
      Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts the energy usage of the product during it’s service life.
        • Like
      • 12 replies

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!