Spare parts - what should I buy?

[neo-ninja 1]

Hey guys,

I have actually started a small business printing models and other prototypes with my UM2. I have done quite a few hours now and am wondering what i should be looking at buying in spares to minimise downtime.

Like what are the most common parts to go (how do i know when they do) and where can i get them from?

Thanks!

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

If you do serious business which requires minimum downtime the best thing you can do is to have more than one printer.

For a more relaxed approach I recommend you have the parts on spare which are delivered with the UM2 nowadays - teflon isolator and nozzle IIRC. You get them rather expensive at the Ultimaker webshop, probably even more expensive at your local reseller or less expensive together with the famous Olsson block at 3dsolex.com.

[neo-ninja 1]

Thanks for the advice do you mind sending me some links on 3dsolex that you recommend as there seems to be so many options!

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Well, for sure get yourself the Olsson Block (with tools if you don't have them). One or two Teflon isolators if you print a lot of XT or other PET derivatives. Only one Teflon if you take the I2K ring as it prolonges the Teflon lifetime. If you print ABS only you should consider the IPM Coupler. For changing the heater block I would have a temp sensor in spare. A spare Bowden tube is also something nice to have as after a few months of intense printing and exchanging filament there are scratches on the inside which decrease the cross section of the tube and as a consequence increase the resistance of the filament inside the tube.

If you want to print very small detailed parts, get yourself a small nozzle (0.25mm); for large parts which have to printed fast a big nozzle (0.8-1mm). If you often print abrasive filaments such as XT-CF20, or whatever-fil from Colorfabb then get yourself a stainless steel nozzle.

Where are you located? 3dsolex has a few partners for certain countries, e.g. USA/Canada or Sweden. But it's written on their website.

[neo-ninja 1]

Well, for sure get yourself the Olsson Block (with tools if you don't have them). One or two Teflon isolators if you print a lot of XT or other PET derivatives. Only one Teflon if you take the I2K ring as it prolonges the Teflon lifetime. If you print ABS only you should consider the IPM Coupler. For changing the heater block I would have a temp sensor in spare. A spare Bowden tube is also something nice to have as after a few months of intense printing and exchanging filament there are scratches on the inside which decrease the cross section of the tube and as a consequence increase the resistance of the filament inside the tube.

If you want to print very small detailed parts, get yourself a small nozzle (0.25mm); for large parts which have to printed fast a big nozzle (0.8-1mm). If you often print abrasive filaments such as XT-CF20, or whatever-fil from Colorfabb then get yourself a stainless steel nozzle.

Where are you located? 3dsolex has a few partners for certain countries, e.g. USA/Canada or Sweden. But it's written on their website.

 

Oh wow thanks for the advice, actually I am mainly printing in PLA as its cheaper and im printing indoors so anything else more chemically or smelly would be bad.

How do i know when the Teflon is done? Like what are some common signs? Also recommendations for someone only printing in PLA? And how many hours do you estimate it has lifetime wise, i think i am almost at 600 hours now.

Seriously helpful advice thank you!

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

My UM2 has over 1200 print hours with the first Teflon and prints still look ok. People usually get underextrusion issues when the Teflon is done.

Edited June 30, 2015 by Guest

[neo-ninja 1]

My UM2 has over 1200 print hours with the first Teflon and prints still look ok. People usually get underextrusion issues when the Teflon is done.

 

oh wow ok so maybe I hold off for a while

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

 

My UM2 has over 1200 print hours with the first Teflon and prints still look ok. People usually get underextrusion issues when the Teflon is done.

 

oh wow ok so maybe I hold off for a while

 

With very rare exceptions I only printed with PLA.