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· Nozzle heights on Olson Block and offsets
Unfortunately no.
The output of cura and s3d is gcode. Near the top of that gcode will be a g28 or a "g28 z0" or something similar which homes the bed at the bottom (UM2 - UMO homes at the top). Then Marlin firmware stores an offset such that when you move to postion z=0 the nozzle should just touch the glass.
If you home on the short nozzle, then when you put the long nozzle in it could break the glass - or at least put some heavy stress on the z stage when printing at Z=0. this would be the only solution where s3d could print the first layer at say Z=2 (2mm above normal z=0 position). I suppose this would actually work but if you forgot that you had the "long" nozzle in you could break the glass if you printed a job where it tried to print at z=0.
The alternative is to home on the long nozzle - this avoids the glass-breaking issue but now when you go to print you need to print the first layer at z= -2. But marlin does not support that - it will hit the "software end stop" and go no farther so you will be printing 2mm off the bed.
So there isn't really a fantastic solution. Really the best solution is to get tinker marlin. It allows you to change the Z home position by an exact amount e.g. 2.013mm so every time you change back and forth between nozzles you can tell your printer (using the front panel interface) how much to offset Z and in which direction.
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gr5 2,295
Unfortunately no.
The output of cura and s3d is gcode. Near the top of that gcode will be a g28 or a "g28 z0" or something similar which homes the bed at the bottom (UM2 - UMO homes at the top). Then Marlin firmware stores an offset such that when you move to postion z=0 the nozzle should just touch the glass.
If you home on the short nozzle, then when you put the long nozzle in it could break the glass - or at least put some heavy stress on the z stage when printing at Z=0. this would be the only solution where s3d could print the first layer at say Z=2 (2mm above normal z=0 position). I suppose this would actually work but if you forgot that you had the "long" nozzle in you could break the glass if you printed a job where it tried to print at z=0.
The alternative is to home on the long nozzle - this avoids the glass-breaking issue but now when you go to print you need to print the first layer at z= -2. But marlin does not support that - it will hit the "software end stop" and go no farther so you will be printing 2mm off the bed.
So there isn't really a fantastic solution. Really the best solution is to get tinker marlin. It allows you to change the Z home position by an exact amount e.g. 2.013mm so every time you change back and forth between nozzles you can tell your printer (using the front panel interface) how much to offset Z and in which direction.
download here:
https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V15.03-RC1
discussion here:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/8689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2?page=63#reply-109035
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