Formfutura Carbonfil

[neotko 1,417]

Note:  This experience it's based on UMO+ adapted to 1.75mm filament.

Printed on cool bed with blue tape at 245C-250C and then lowered to 245C to check. Speeds of 70mm at 0.2 layer.

The first top layer did an awesome job (not fully covering all) but the second was a perfect cover. On Colorfabb and most pla (except Faberdashery) I need 4 top layers to have a perfect cover. I used 20% infill with a 45/-45 pattern (s3d). The holes cover really really nicely so I assume the bridging capabilities of this filament are amazing.

Got the print with a little bit of fan (enough to cool my printed head fan) and had to raise it just a tiny bit because there was a bit of filament scrach from lower layers. After raising the fan just that bit the scratch basinshed.

I can't show photos because it's a design I made for a customer but the color black mate finish has a color like the carbon from a pencil. Amazing and super easy tonprint.

It drips quite a bit at print temperature but without touching the retractions it didn't left any strings. For dualextruders the dripping almost stops at 200C so it might need a heat setting for duals.

The black finish it's just amazing.

The print poped very easyly from the blue tape (but I had to scratch the blue tape).

Edit: The second time the object poped really nicely from the bluetape so it's totally reusable.

Edited July 17, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

This 'hairs' appeared again while doing another print. It's like it's more prone to 'scratch' from the infill movement, I think this can be fixed by changing the infill size (s3d). Anyway it didn't affected the final quality and was very nicely cover by toplayers.

Photo of first and second toplayers. The third toplayer was just perfect and I did use 4 toplayers, the final look (sorry can't show) it's to die for.

[neotko 1,417]

Just a note to future users. Don't, ever, ever, never, just never ever, use esun filament cleaner after using carbonfil formfutura. At least for me has been a full day trying to clean it, there's just no way, it fuses and make a bond so tight that not even at 250C I was able to push it (after 4hours trying to cold pull, pushing with filament and finally inserting a metal to do cold pulls that got most of it but wasn't able to go through the block). So finally hat to boil the heater barrel, peek, ptfe and even then 30minutes boiling I just had to use a drill to break it and still there's part stick to the barrel (that I'm sure I can remove now). So, just in case, don't use the cleaning filament after carbonfil.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I had a bad experience with cleaning fillament after normal pla... I just do use it again ever.

[neotko 1,417]

With pla I just need to extrude it slowwly but it works nice for wood. With this carbon it bonded like I never seen. But yes it's a variable with too little control over it.

[neotko 1,417]

One interesting think. I been postprocessing some of the stuff I printed with this material months ago and when exposed to heat it toughens by ALOT.

The fan cap I use the area that it's at 3mm of the heater block has shrink 1mm but it's hard as hell. So I putout my air desolder and went raising the temp over a few prints. At 100-120C it starts to go darker and hard. It stops being soft to break and becomes really really hard to break compared to pla. So interesting stuff. It also becomes a bit more glossy and losses a bit of size. In a few months I will have more free time to do test on the oven.

[neotko 1,417]

When printing ng carbonfill at 60mm/s the nozzle builds quite fast of residue so I ise this trick to remove it.

Pick a filament part. I got toons from finished spools.

Cut the filament tip so it's pointy

Slowdown the machine to 50% or so.

Drag the dirt out.

Bad video since its hard record and do both thinks at the same time.

 

[neotko 1,417]

This it's my S3D profile for carbon, but mind a few thinks.

Retract speed it's at 15mm/s

Retract distance it's set to 2.7mm for my um2 hotend 1.75mm filament

Filament size it's 1.75mm

Print speed 60mm/s

Nozzle temp 255, but just because my temp sensor it's off by +10C so I actually print it at 245C

This profile has retracts to a minimum and fans off. So adjust as you see fit.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/toc97423bdb8zut/CARBONOK.fff?dl=0

If your print get's blops on retracts try to activate retract while wiping on advanced, but that will open a lot of stuff to adjust since the retract speed it's 15mm/s.

I use 15mm/s retract speed because carbonfill filament it's quite easy to snap even if brand new. With 15mm/s I never got a break, but mind the tension of your feeder, too high will chew the filament.

Also remember that this it's for 1.75 so probably 2.85 can resist a bit more, but will take more time to be able to retract... Well if you know what you do you will know how to adjust it.

[Artiz 27]

When printing ng carbonfill at 60mm/s the nozzle builds quite fast of residue so I ise this trick to remove it.

Pick a filament part. I got toons from finished spools.

Cut the filament tip so it's pointy

Slowdown the machine to 50% or so.

Drag the dirt out.

Bad video since its hard record and do both thinks at the same time.

 

 

Not very 'Ninja Style' neotko...

[Artiz 27]

great post though thanks for the info...

Edited May 9, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

No indeed. I used to do it with a tweezers 'ninja style' but this method it's safer for the hands and specially for the print.

[Artiz 27]

No indeed. I used to do it with a tweezers 'ninja style' but this method it's safer for the hands and specially for the print.

 

So how many carbon filaments have you tried... was thinking of trying out this 3DXMAX® CARBON FIBER PETG FILAMENT but not sure the extra expense is worth it...

[neotko 1,417]

Sincerely only formfutura. I have a colorfabb spool unopen. Maintly because a customer loved the color so I had to print a toooon of it.