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Most other people on the net from what ive read use an air canister held upside down and just spray the model where it touches th base (ive tried it and it works) with it hyper cooling it and then it also come off very easy. But to tell you the truth after you've been printing for a while, you wont need any of this as when you use the right glue and the right amount it always comes off easy, no matter how big or flat it is. I have't had a problem removing anything for many months now, i cant even remember the last time i had a tricky model to get off. I used to get them stuck so hard, i would put a plastic chisel and hammer type setup to the glass! lol, but after a few chips i gave up on that idea and have to print on the other side as a result of my actions, lol.
Also when you find the right glue, you don't need to keep re-applying it. I change my glue about every 20-30 models now. The only reason i would get a new plate is because the old one was chipped. or has holes in it as tends to happen over time.
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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cloakfiend 995
Most other people on the net from what ive read use an air canister held upside down and just spray the model where it touches th base (ive tried it and it works) with it hyper cooling it and then it also come off very easy. But to tell you the truth after you've been printing for a while, you wont need any of this as when you use the right glue and the right amount it always comes off easy, no matter how big or flat it is. I have't had a problem removing anything for many months now, i cant even remember the last time i had a tricky model to get off. I used to get them stuck so hard, i would put a plastic chisel and hammer type setup to the glass! lol, but after a few chips i gave up on that idea and have to print on the other side as a result of my actions, lol.
Also when you find the right glue, you don't need to keep re-applying it. I change my glue about every 20-30 models now. The only reason i would get a new plate is because the old one was chipped. or has holes in it as tends to happen over time.
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