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What you can do is pull out the heat cartridge from your old UMO hotend (or buy a new ~18-20V one somewhere online), and use that in the E3D heatblock, to have something properly proportioned... (They are the same physical sizes).
You can also drill a tiny hole in the old UMO heatblock to fit the thermistor from the E3D kit (the old hole for the thermocouple is too large) and then just use that heatblock with the E3D hotend (again... same physical characteristics, threads etc.)...
Doing that you will however loose some of the niceness of the E3D hotend, as it has some cool, but non critical design features that deviate from the UMO one...
I was in a similar situation as you with my UMO a good while back, but at the same time also adding a heated bed, stronger PSU and some other things...
All in all, the list of mods and the incompatibility of the UMO board, made me in the end, throw it away all together and replace it with a RUMBA board running 24V.
That IS a bigger upgrade... Not at all impossible though, and maybe worth considering already now if you down the road, will find your self wanting more upgrades.
I used a 24v heater on the e3d v6 with no problems. If you don't want to change the ultimaker board and solder a resister to it in order to run a thermistor, e3d also sell type k thermocouples which work with the oem ultimaker amplifiers. No change of firmware is required if you go down this route.
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Here comes Cura 5.9 and in this stable release we have lots of material and printer profiles for UltiMaker printers, including the newly released Sketch Sprint. Additionally, scarf seams have been introduced alongside even more print settings and improvements. Check out the rest of this article to find out the details on all of that and more
We are happy to announce the next evolution in the UltiMaker 3D printer lineup: the UltiMaker Factor 4 industrial-grade 3D printer, designed to take manufacturing to new levels of efficiency and reliability. Factor 4 is an end-to-end 3D printing solution for light industrial applications
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tommyph1208 55
Neither really...
What you can do is pull out the heat cartridge from your old UMO hotend (or buy a new ~18-20V one somewhere online), and use that in the E3D heatblock, to have something properly proportioned... (They are the same physical sizes).
You can also drill a tiny hole in the old UMO heatblock to fit the thermistor from the E3D kit (the old hole for the thermocouple is too large) and then just use that heatblock with the E3D hotend (again... same physical characteristics, threads etc.)...
Doing that you will however loose some of the niceness of the E3D hotend, as it has some cool, but non critical design features that deviate from the UMO one...
I was in a similar situation as you with my UMO a good while back, but at the same time also adding a heated bed, stronger PSU and some other things...
All in all, the list of mods and the incompatibility of the UMO board, made me in the end, throw it away all together and replace it with a RUMBA board running 24V.
That IS a bigger upgrade... Not at all impossible though, and maybe worth considering already now if you down the road, will find your self wanting more upgrades.
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macua85 52
I used a 24v heater on the e3d v6 with no problems. If you don't want to change the ultimaker board and solder a resister to it in order to run a thermistor, e3d also sell type k thermocouples which work with the oem ultimaker amplifiers. No change of firmware is required if you go down this route.
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