with the pla i thought to get lower oozing i need to go colder not hotter ? or is not correct ?
Edited by GuestTo print fast without underextrusion you need higher temperatures. Just imagine the filament going through the heater block. If it moves slow (the filament) you can print cooler because the filament goes from ambient temperature the filament must reach the desired temp. So if you print high mm^3 (nozzle size x height x mm/s) you need time or heat to make the filament temperature constant.
In short words. The more filament it's printed/time the hotter you need to go to keep the filament reaching the temp where the filament 'flows'. When that temperature isn't reached the extruder feeder it's forced to work more and can cause skips, filament grind, bowden tube poping out because too much preassure, etc. To fight oozing you have the retractions and specially the travel speed that you can set on um2 to 200-250mm/s (someone correct this if I'm wrong). Ofc if you want the best quality print you might need to go 30-50mm/s speed. For low quality of just ok you can print at 75-100mm/s. The mm^3 depend on the nozzle x layer height x print speed.
Edited by Guest
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ultiarjan 1,223
to change : go in the menu to "material", then "change", it will heatup and unload , then you load the new fillament and it will prime a bit, and ask you what kind of material you loaded.
Ofcourse you can also do it manually ....
and for 0.2 you need to go slower and hotter...spend some time reading on this forum and you'll find lot's of examples of speed/layer/temp combinations...
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