Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

butting a new roll of pla after the last one is almost done

Recommended Posts

hello , i would like to know how to change the roll of pla after it is finished to another pla roll

i have ultimaker 2 for almost 2 weeks now and i am   very happy with the results .

but now the spool of pla is almost finished . how do i change the pla spool ?

i was thinking of

unload material button . -> take the pla out of the loader -> then add new material - and let it extrude around a minute or two .

then i am good to go ?

also in the last few prints i am having a big oozing problem and also some layers are not stock very good together . but i think this is because i am printing at 0.2 mm layer hight and 100 mm speed and 150 travel speed at 203 c .

so how do i change material ?

Edited by Guest

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

to change : go in the menu to "material", then "change", it will heatup and unload , then you load the new fillament and it will prime a bit, and ask you what kind of material you loaded.

Ofcourse you can also do it manually ....

and for 0.2 you need to go slower and hotter...spend some time reading on this forum and you'll find lot's of examples of speed/layer/temp combinations...

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

To print fast without underextrusion you need higher temperatures. Just imagine the filament going through the heater block. If it moves slow (the filament) you can print cooler because the filament goes from ambient temperature the filament must reach the desired temp. So if you print high mm^3 (nozzle size x height x mm/s) you need time or heat to make the filament temperature constant.

In short words. The more filament it's printed/time the hotter you need to go to keep the filament reaching the temp where the filament 'flows'. When that temperature isn't reached the extruder feeder it's forced to work more and can cause skips, filament grind, bowden tube poping out because too much preassure, etc. To fight oozing you have the retractions and specially the travel speed that you can set on um2 to 200-250mm/s (someone correct this if I'm wrong). Ofc if you want the best quality print you might need to go 30-50mm/s speed. For low quality of just ok you can print at 75-100mm/s. The mm^3 depend on the nozzle x layer height x print speed.

Edited by Guest

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • Ultimaker Cura | a new interface
      We're not only trying to always make Ultimaker Cura better with the usual new features and improvements we build, but we're also trying to make it more pleasant to operate. The interface was the focus for the upcoming release, from which we would already like to present you the first glance. 
        • Like
      • 122 replies
    • "Back To The Future" using Generative Design & Investment Casting
      Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts the energy usage of the product during it’s service life.
        • Like
      • 12 replies

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!