Merci! pour parler "vulgaire: c'est donc du "pyrex"...
C'est à cause des possibles chocs thermiques je pense... Donc un bon verre de bonne qualité, et pas de chocs thermiques: on doit pouvoir trouver... je vais me renseigner...
Donc confirmation: ça ne se découpe pas sans outillage spécial, sinon ça explose en miettes...
Voilà voilà...
Je ne pense pas prendre trop de risque avec un verre normal: je vais essayer...
- 3 months later...
bonjour, petite précision suite a vos commentaire, ayant travaillé dans une miroiterie, le verre en question est de ce qu'on appel du verre trempé, donc verre blanc recuit avec tout un processus de refroidissement pour qu'il en devienne un produit plus résistant au choc et qu'au rayure, donc suite a se traitement il est impossible de le retailler ou de le coupé, sans risque de le voir éclater ( comme une plat en pyrex ) et bien-sur au risque de s'en prendre plein le visage.
info page 3:
http://www.glasstime.com/download/fr/Guardian_GlassTime_FR_Chapter-07.pdf
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1
Merci pour la précision.
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Here it is. The new UltiMaker S7
MariMakes posted a topic in Official news,
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
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Cura 5.3 Alpha With New Tree Support 🎄
MariMakes posted a topic in Ultimaker Cura,
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.-
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New here? Get ahead with a free onboarding course
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Hi,
Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process. A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. That is why we have a onboarding course ready for
Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle, Ultimaker S5, Ultimaker S3 Ultimaker 2+ Connect.
They're ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access.
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rigs 735
Salut nano et bienvenue
Concernant le plateau c'est du verre borosilicate, je n'ai jamais pris le temps de me pencher sur la question " du pourquoi du comment " ce type de verre et pas un autre...
Toujours est-il que fabriquer du verre c'est un métier !
J'utilise régulièrement un mirroir classique pour imprimer à haute température il faut juste faire attention à la qualité du tain au revers, tu peux l'enlever avec un spatule et un souffleur d'ait chaud.
Il m'arrive aussi d'imprimer directement sur le plateau alu mais avec du scotch de peintre par contre aucune garantie de planéité avec ce type de méthode.
Bref tu peux imprimer sur n'importe quoi ou presque pourvu que le matériel soit conducteur de chaleur et surtout plan.
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