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SG91

Please help/explain/solve my robot errors

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Im new to 3d Printing and Its so frustrating to learn all the fine tuning.

this guy was made um pla 210c 30mm/s 0 infill. Saw it stringing/blobing etc inside also.

And I dont really know how to make a good start either. So I do Brim? gives it time to spit and extrude before reaching my print.

are there any "basic" graph to follow that tells recomended parameters for the chosen speed etc?  

It was abit better when I did it as default size, thought making him larger would be better but no.

those symptoms is overhang or?

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Edited by Guest

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Ok thank you, so running cold as posible is best?

by the way should I install 2 fans?

I did a new one at 198c that turned out abit better .

And a cup from thingverse

But used the "fast" auto this time and it looks good.

Noticed "Walls not touching " in some layers during print thought.

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Your robot isnt to bad. but at 30mm/s I normally print at 190 - 195.

Have A look at This article as it maybe of some help.

 

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Edited by Guest

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The preset profiles change depending on the Cura version you are using. Some have settings that are not ideal and can give you under-extrusion.

Its best to save a few of your own so you know exactly what settings your using and adjust the temp to suit. The faster you print, the hotter the nozzle needs to be.

You can find some test pieces on youmagine and try out your settings and adjust the temp so that ovehangs look good etc.

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alright!

about the default Fast-normal-high-ulti

they all seem to use 50mm/s speed and 210c? I tried the robot on ulti

but took cancel cos it was too fast. And when I compare to my 30 it was worse I think.

i have the newest updates.

defaults arent so good then ?

 

The preset profiles change depending on the Cura version you are using. Some have settings that are not ideal and can give you under-extrusion.

Its best to save a few of your own so you know exactly what settings your using and adjust the temp to suit. The faster you print, the hotter the nozzle needs to be.

You can find some test pieces on youmagine and try out your settings and adjust the temp so that ovehangs look good etc.

 

Edited by Guest

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What Cura version are you using?

The defaults are ok for standard uncomplicated designs. The robot is small with quite a few overhangs and small pins. This actually makes it difficult to get each item perfect.

The Ulti setting is a very low layer height which can print faster. But as its such a low layer height it cant bridge very well. As it goes to bridge a small gap the strands coming out of the nozzle are very small and can break making it look ugly. there are other issues related with low layer heights but its good for sloping models.

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okey :) 15.04.4 i got.

I guess its best to use same speed at infill walls etc ?

feels more stable then or am I wrong?

 

What Cura version are you using?

The defaults are ok for standard uncomplicated designs. The robot is small with quite a few overhangs and small pins. This actually makes it difficult to get each item perfect.

The Ulti setting is a very low layer height which can print faster. But as its such a low layer height it cant bridge very well. As it goes to bridge a small gap the strands coming out of the nozzle are very small and can break making it look ugly. there are other issues related with low layer heights but its good for sloping models.

 

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yepp! I thought so.

But still I wanna make an easy list with optimal temps for 15mm/s 20mm/s 25mm/s 30mm/s etc up to like 80 so I dont need to do random guessing all time ?

Another thought about bridges for example the back head of the robot,

depending on size the gap gets wider, then If I print at slow speed it will fail with that overhang then? so it needs to go faster at that point I suppose ?

 

Yes, If you keep every speed the same then you can select the perfect temp for the speed you are printing at. If the speed changes the the outer slower layers maybe overheated. But if the infill is fast then this maybe under-extruded as they are to cold for that speed.

 

Edited by Guest

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Yes making a list is a good idea. I save my print profiles with the material type and temp for the name. then I edit the material profiles on my machine with the matching name so its always consistent.

Bridges like the back of the robot head are always best printed slowly so the plastic strand doesn't break and it gets more cooling. But the higher the layer height means the stronger the strand.

Quality doesn't always mean low layer heights. Some items end up with a better appearance if printed at a higher layer height.

If you are printing and object with a bridge and using 40 micron layers each layer is squashed flat to the layer below and the side appearance looks nice. when it comes to the bridging part you will end up with fatter rounder lines connecting one side of the bridge to the other as there is no layer beneath for it to be squashed against. So thicker overall layer makes it look more even and can be a lot nicer appearance.

The nozzle is also always under pressure from the plastic feeding in and also the thermal expansion of the plastic. So the slower or lower micron layers you print the more thermal expansion which can lead to ugly overhangs and blobs. hence making sure you match the temp to suit.

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They are pretty good results. With the second test it looks a little hot in one area. But as the head is moving faster, it doesn't take long for the head come around over the previous layer. So this means the previous layer doesn't have as much time to cool and you end up with it being a bit hot.

To fix this issue you either print slower and colder, or print 2 things at once. There is also a cool head lift function but i find this reduces the quality a bit.

So this is where customs settings are useful. If your printing an item with a small area its best to print slower and cooler. but if the item is bigger then you can get away with printing a bit faster.

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I know, but the second one below was just an older print to compare with, close to default settings.

Noticed in the x-y test the circle is suppose to be round but y was 19.8 and x 19.7.

Printed out 2x Ultimaker Belt Tensioner v2..

And the one inside touched the wooden bed frame.. When I removed the tensioner

the belt became more even more slack than before.

 

They are pretty good results. With the second test it looks a little hot in one area. But as the head is moving faster, it doesn't take long for the head come around over the previous layer. So this  means the previous layer doesn't have as much time to cool and you end up with it being a bit hot.

To fix this issue you either print slower and colder, or print 2 things at once. There is also  a cool head lift function but i find this reduces the quality a bit.

So this is where customs settings are useful. If your printing an item with a small area its best to print slower and cooler. but if the item is bigger then you can get away with printing a bit faster.

 

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