Broblems either with hot end or feeder

[bob-hepple 59]

Hi All

I had this down in another part of the forum

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/7450-simplify3d?page=6#unread

which is off thread..

I'm having problems with Feeder Motor slipping not being able to prime the nozzle without motor slipping,

and bad quality of prints top layers open and in brass fill totally bad scaring open top weave as Above.

have a look below any thoughts welcome

This is how it was originally after Olson Block installed

This is during the strip down No Materials leaking well clean

The distance from Ptfe and steel coupler is 3.68. The Coupler was screwed all way down and backed off half a turn, as per instructions, so the distance from Ptfe and steel coupler can't be changed.

this is what there was behind the i2K a bit of crap you can see is this normal

below is the Ptfe at the point of where the blade is, there is a ridge, I would say Deformity is this normal, could this be causing my problems..

or do we think this is all OK and my problem is at the feeder end,

I have the 34 mm yoke on to stop filament being ground could this be putting to much pressure on the motor causing it to slip.

HELP

[JATMN 6]

I don't know a lot about this one.. but to me.. 3.68mm is a massive gap.. I only have about 1.3-1.5mm gap on mine..

I don't think yours is going down far enough it should be touching the top of the olsson block.. inside the steel coupler....

If you bought one of the PTFE insulators from china its the wrong size.. they make them oversize and they dont fit down in the coupler correctly.. some reason they think there needs to be a pressure seal between the ptfe and the steel.. when the main issue is having a equal seal between the PTFE and steel as well as the PTFE and the top of your extruder block...

The ones I have picked up from china were completely over sized and never touched the top of the block.

Also can I get the link for that fan shroud

Edited January 28, 2016 by Guest

[bob-hepple 59]

Jatman

thanks for the reply, The steel coupler and the Ptfe are from 3dsolex, Plus the i2k, which goes inside the Coupler, and the Ptfe sits on top this gives another 1mm Or so in height they are the same as the stock parts Dimensionally, The difference is in the Olson Block and the installation guid on 3d Solex web sight, where you screw the coupler all the way down and then back it off again Half a Turn, Plus Im using the Spacer idea. I am thinking of making a new spacer from alloy, I was even thinking of reducing the height of the Ptfe. But I was waiting for some more help from the Forum before I started..

The shroud is from Laybern have a look below and pick the wright one for you

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-fan-shroud

I Use it and its Fab Printed in Nylon with some tape inside

[JATMN 6]

Hmmm...

Not seen the spacers myself.. but in theory sounds like a bad idea to me to have a spacer in between the PTFE and the olsson block.. thats just another transition point for material to get stuck in.. stock with an olsson.. you already have the PTFE to Block transition.. then Block to Nozzle transition. So you have 2 places where the material could *potentially* get stuck if either are loose or not mating correctly.. this was the one pro of running the stock ultimaker block was only 1 transition point to troubleshoot..adding a spacer you just added a additional point of failure for smooth feeding of filament..  Meaning you have 3 possible issue points to possibly induce feeding issues.  

Just my thoughts on the matter though..

Thx for the link!

Edited January 28, 2016 by Guest

[Labern 774]

The difference is in the Olson Block and the installation guid on 3d Solex web sight, where you screw the coupler all the way down and then back it off again Half a Turn, Plus Im using the Spacer idea.

 

The Guide for the half turn back will only work if you are using the spring not the spacer.

With the spacer you screw the coupler till the PTFE is firm against the spacer. not to tight that you put to much pressure on the PTFE but tight enough so there is no movement and everything sits tight against each other. When you do this make sure the steel coupler is not hitting the Olsson Block. there should be atleast 1mm cap between the steel coupler and the Olsson Block to make sure everything if sitting firm inside.

[Labern 774]

Hmmm...

Not seen the spacers myself.. but in theory sounds like a bad idea to me to have a spacer in between the PTFE and the olsson block..

Thx for the link!

 

The Spacer replaces the spring above the PTFE just like on the new UM2+ models. helps stop constant pressure from the spring, deforming the PTFE.

[JATMN 6]

 

Hmmm...

Not seen the spacers myself.. but in theory sounds like a bad idea to me to have a spacer in between the PTFE and the olsson block..

Thx for the link!

 

The Spacer replaces the spring above the PTFE just like on the new UM2+ models. helps stop constant pressure from the spring, deforming the PTFE.

 

Ah!...

https://d3v5bfco3dani2.cloudfront.net/photo/image/2500x0/56a91e7edbf70.jpg

I was looking at that picture and figured the black ring was another spacer going under the PTFE.. Yea I seen top spacers before..

[Labern 774]

Yes the black ring is the I2K wafer. It does go under the PTFE, I did not realise that is what you were referring to.

Its another method to prolong the life of the PTFE and can withstand high temps without deforming. Its widely used and works very well.

[JATMN 6]

Yea that was what I was referring too.. another point of failure for a jam.. :/

[bob-hepple 59]

Any Chance of Any Advise Hear Other Than the the height of the Ptfe Spacer ect.

for all that have replied so Far I thank you...

[Labern 774]

Make sure the olsson block is sitting parallel with the bottom alloy heat sink plate. You may need to drill out the hole in the alloy plate that the heater / temp sensor clamping screw goes into. The dimension on some blocks is out so the screw makes the OB sit on an angle.

[bob-hepple 59]

Labern

Thank you for taking the time to have an input to my problem unlike others on the forum,??

I am rebuilding the head throwing the old Ptfe it has deformed and is a very tight fit. I am making a new spacer from Alloy, I have also took the time to modify the New Ptfe in its dimensions and shape. Experimenting with some spares. Will post picture when built (today time allowing)

Again thanks

[bob-hepple 59]

P.s forgot to say I did drill out the hole as you suggested

[Labern 774]

Sounds good.

will be interesting what you come up with.