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E3D Chimera Dual Hotend on Ultimaker Original +

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Posted · E3D Chimera Dual Hotend on Ultimaker Original +

Hello. I have been looking at the forums and surprisingly have found little to nothing about more promising ways of dual extrusion like using the E3D Chimera hotend. So I want to know if there are any roadblocks or design limitations of the Ultimaker Original + for using the Chimera hotend on this printer. Any type of issue that the printer would present for this and how/if it can be fixed:

- Software (Cura)

- Marlin firmware

- Printer head

- Changing to 1.75mm filament (since Chimera only supports 1.75mm)

- extruding issues

- Voltage/ power constraints

- leaking problems

- Any other indirect modifications that help

- etc.

I could probably figure out if it's bust or not through trial, error, and research, I just want to save time better spent on improving my UMO+. Would I be better off just going for an E3D V6 single head? Any insight will be appreciated. Thanks.

-- Andrew

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    • 5 months later...
    Posted · E3D Chimera Dual Hotend on Ultimaker Original +

    I ran into the same problem. I had a dual-strusion project that I got an UMP+ for, but between the time I ordered it and it shipped they cancelled the experimental option to add a second extruder. The controller has all of the connectors, but you can't buy the extruder kit (stepper motor, hot end, etc.) and I was never able to figure out what the parts were for the UMO+ - it uses different voltages and parts than the UMO or UM2, which third parties support much better than the UMO+.

    That being said, I was able to swap in this platform and extruder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179I2TGS which is an awesome all-metal "Evervictory 0.4mm Nozzle Extruder Hot End J-head Mount Holder for Ultimaker 3mm Filament" which has a copy of the E3Dv6 with a 12v fan and hole for a thermistor. I swapped in a real E3Dv6 with a hole for a PT100 heater block. which worked perfectly. The UMO+ runs on 24v, so I wired the 12v fan up to an external 12v power supply, and turn on the printer by a switch on a power strip. Never run the E3Dv6 with the fan off - it'll cause as a real mess, as I found.

    Note: all of the swapping I had to do was because the UMO+ is different from the UMO. The Evictory would be an easy drop in for the UMO, which uses a thermistor and 12v power.

    This doesn't give me dual-strusion, but it is a vastly easier to use extruder to the one that came with the UMO+. No more fiddling when loading filament!

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    Posted (edited) · E3D Chimera Dual Hotend on Ultimaker Original +

    The UMO+ uses the same driveboard, temp sensors and voltages as the UM2, so most stuff that works for the UM2 works for the UMO+

    Re: the original question of @aelric23, i belive that it would actually be pretty simple to add a E3D Chimera to a UMO, just get it with the new V6 cartridge based heater blocks with 24V heaters and PT100 sensors, and it will be a more or less a plug-in solution electrically wise.

    Then replace the feeder with two E3D Titans and some 2/4mm bowden tubing, these will also be plug-in on the driveboard. and you will have done your 1.75mm conversion.

    After that, it is just a matter of some firmware hacking to get dual extrusion going.

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted (edited) · E3D Chimera Dual Hotend on Ultimaker Original +

    The initial support is there for dual extrusion on the UM2 board (extra heater output, extra stepper driver for Feeder, extra temp sensor input), so I would also just go ahead and try...

    If you are concerned about the power needed, you could go with the Cyclops instead, it would be easier to set up in alot of ways (less wireing, temp control, nozzle alignment and offset etc.), but of course comes with the drawback of not being able to control temperatures of each nozzle seperately, as well as probably the need for more purging in-between material shifts to not mix them too much.

    Edited by Guest
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