Hm, geting a bit cooler is maybe something I have to try with more too. But I don't want to get much slower if possible.
If getting slower helps, why not just get for a second slower direct before jumping. I guess theres many ways to fix this stringing problems already on software/cura side?
If getting slower helps, why not just get for a second slower direct before jumping. I guess theres many ways to fix this stringing problems already on software/cura side?
Yes. Well. This is what frustrates me about Marlin. I have been pushing this for a year (not very hard but still).
The reason slower helps is because there is less pressure in the bowden and in the nozzle when printing slower.
The reason cooler helps is because the filament is more like toothpaste (versus honey) and so it's less likely to leak out but you can get underextrusion if you try to print it too fast.
- 2 weeks later...
Thank you for the tip. The image about stringing I already find at guideline too. And yes it seems to help the strings getting shorter and smaller but if i cleaning up it dont make that big difference if the strings are short or long I just cut them away the same way ^-
The thinner the strings, the easier they are to remove. Very very thin strings can be removed with a candle flame but be very very careful.
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gr5 2,295
Interesting idea - trying to get the string to pull off when it passes over the edge.
I don't get much stringing. I print a bit slower and cooler. If you print for example at 30mm/sec and 210C you might find you get zero stringing. But maybe you find this to be too slow?
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