Walls + top/bottom layers not touching

[oddoutput 7]

I've had a for a while now that the walls of my prints don't touch and that the top/bottom layers are full of gaps.

BUT

I have also noticed that when I print the calibration test that comes standard with the ultimaker, it prints perfectly.

The stuff I'm currently printing is pretty big so it moves around more.

Would this mean I would have to toy around with the belts?

Does it seem like the most logical problem here, becuase it does not seem like underextrusion (I get a nice little heap of material at the start of a print when it pre-extrudes before the priming and no layers that seem underextruded, just a gap between walls and top/bottom layers.)

[neotko 1,417]

Photo?

[oddoutput 7]

(all of them in grey because it was easier to photograph than red)

but yeah

[oddoutput 7]

any idea :( ?

[neotko 1,417]

Try using a higher travel speed. And if you use legacy cura you might need to use retract while combing pluging so it drags less material from a to b.

Also, ofc, try the cura new beta, I suppose it has something for that. On S3D it's easier to remove that effect with its retract settings.

Share your settings maybe there's something that can be tune up.

[oddoutput 7]

I haven't really changed any settings apart from layer height and supports of course but prints before were alright.

[neotko 1,417]

Answered on the wrong post to other think sorry

Edited April 18, 2016 by Guest

[oddoutput 7]

Answered on the wrong post to other think sorry

 

oh omg that's okay though, it might have been good to post my settings anyways.

[neotko 1,417]

You should be able to use travel speed to 200mm/s, that should help a bit with the marks.

Also since tou use legacy (old) cura. There's a pluging called retract while combing that helps with that drip-between-moves.

[neotko 1,417]

Also, since your top layers don't close well. You could try..

- Higher temps

- Slower speeds

The calibration test you print that goes ok, it might be ok because it prints at slower speeds. But now that I think it, it doesn't make sense since you are already printing quite slow. Ok, tight the x/y motors. And try to change flow from 100% to 105% on the machine. If there's gaps, then go for 110% flow.

BUT before you try any of that, you need to tell us.

- What materials you use (ABS/PLA)

- How many atomic pulls you done lately (if you didn't do 5-10 atomic pulls and print again)

- How long has (in print hours if posible) your PTFE Coupler.

- And more important. What machine model, how old it's.

[oddoutput 7]

Also, since your top layers don't close well. You could try..

- Higher temps

- Slower speeds

The calibration test you print that goes ok, it might be ok because it prints at slower speeds. But now that I think it, it doesn't make sense since you are already printing quite slow. Ok, tight the x/y motors. And try to change flow from 100% to 105% on the machine. If there's gaps, then go for 110% flow.

BUT before you try any of that, you need to tell us.

- What materials you use (ABS/PLA)

- How many atomic pulls you done lately (if you didn't do 5-10 atomic pulls and print again)

- How long has (in print hours if posible) your PTFE Coupler.

- And more important. What machine model, how old it's.

 

I have an ultimaker 2 and only use PLA.

The PTFE coupler has been switched to times in between (not because they were bad, just to test if they were and if it might make any difference).

Atomic pulls have been done more than enough times.

I tried tightening the X/Y/ motors and changing the flow to 105%, but without any difference.

Tried changing the temperature from 210 to 220 too but that caused a heater error so I'll have to look into that TOO. I like the Ollson block but dang.

Edited April 21, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

A heater error use to means that there's a change on the heat flow, so it can't reach the temp. That use to mean that the block it's touching something. That makes a heat transfer and the block can't keep the heat. Check, if it's touching m, if so, bend the alu/steel so it doesn't. Other option it's to print Labern fancap (youmagine/google).

[oddoutput 7]

A heater error use to means that there's a change on the heat flow, so it can't reach the temp. That use to mean that the block it's touching something. That makes a heat transfer and the block can't keep the heat. Check, if it's touching m, if so, bend the alu/steel so it doesn't. Other option it's to print Labern fancap (youmagine/google).

 

Oh don't worry, I'm aware of that, I just though I had already fixed that but apparently not.

Labern's fancap also isn't really suitable in PLA, I'd guess?

[neotko 1,417]

I don't know. But since it's just a fan cap if you use some aluminium foil and kapton on the hotarea it should work and last at least enough prints for you to print it on a more suited material. Also, worse case scenario, you might need to think about getting a good 35W heater (not a must to fix this but sure helps).

[ultiarjan 1,223]

 

A heater error use to means that there's a change on the heat flow, so it can't reach the temp. That use to mean that the block it's touching something. That makes a heat transfer and the block can't keep the heat. Check, if it's touching m, if so, bend the alu/steel so it doesn't. Other option it's to print Labern fancap (youmagine/google).

 

Oh don't worry, I'm aware of that, I just though I had already fixed that but apparently not.

Labern's fancap also isn't really suitable in PLA, I'd guess?

 

I printed mine in ABS with a little kapton, using it for at least half a year with no deformation, guess you are right that if printed in PLA, or even XT it will probably deform. I see you're in the Netherlands.... I'm in a good mood today... I can print you one in ABS if you want.... just PM me.

I had the top lines not closing, and I never solved it until I got the upgrade kit with the new feeder. I really think it's a mechanical matter, specially when your filament is tense in the bowden, f.e. the last part of a spool, will make things worse.