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Starwind0

Ninjaflex

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Okay, I am getting pretty frustrated trying to 3d print with ninjaflex on the UM2 extended. I'm very experienced with 3d printing, with 5 years building these machines, starting with Reprap.

The recommended temp of 230 seems pretty nuts, as it will come out as liquid.

I got it printing at 200, sides looks okay, but the internals are just whispy webs. Mostly looks like I dripped a wax candle inside.

I'm just looking for a settings list for S3d that say Use this! And at-least get me 90% of the way there. If I have to tinker the settings over weeks I might as well use my Mendelmax instead. The UM2 I bought with the aim of not tinkering, and tinkering on the MM2.

Thanks!

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Actually I think your PT100 is out of range. Mine shows about 15°C lower than it should and I never got Ninjaflex liquid. Is the temperture reading stable?

I print Ninjaflex at 15mm/s or maybe 20mm/s but not faster. Also, if you have not yet, use some corn oil or similar (organic oil with high smoking temperature) to lube the Ninjaflex inside the Bowden tube.

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Actually I think your PT100 is out of range. Mine shows about 15°C lower than it should and I never got Ninjaflex liquid. Is the temperture reading stable?

I print Ninjaflex at 15mm/s or maybe 20mm/s but not faster. Also, if you have not yet, use some corn oil or similar (organic oil with high smoking temperature) to lube the Ninjaflex inside the Bowden tube.

 

Agree with all the above - I use an IRoberti filament cleaner (see youmagine) with light oil (in my case WD40) and a modified UMO extruder and a temp of 240 and a .6mm nozzle and I get a passable result - did a 19 hour print with it last week.

Not as good as direct drive, but workable.

Rubber down a bowden is always going to be 'tricky'.

Semiflex is easier as it is a stiffer filament, but it is also much harder.

Play with retraction - pulling rubber down a bowden is also not necessarily the best.

So you have picked a tough filament for a bowden setup.

Possible, but needs tinkering.

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