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jameshs last won the day on January 12 2016

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  1. If I am doing a one off for a friend then I charge nothing - but I make it clear it is a one off. If it is for an unknown person then it is a complicated set of questions How do you value your time How do you value your machine time Machine time is easy - write off the machine plus spares plus maintenance over a three year period. Allow for 35 hours of printing a week - then do the maths Your time - well, I assume you are not currently a full time 3D printer ... if you want to be then divide the salary you want over 35 hour week, plus taxes, plus overhead and you have an hourly rate
  2. Hmmmmmm - plate sounds a bit inflexible - what are you hinge arrangements, or is it flexible in some way? Anyway - with the e-nable fingers the pulling string is almost always offset from centre - so when pulled applies an asymmetric force around the fulcrum and hence the bend in that direction. I have played around with this - the further away from the fulcrum you place the string, the stronger the pull force, but the lower the potential overall movement. I have also played with non-linear 'holes' for the string - placed closer to the fulcrum, so when the finger is flat it takes a degree o
  3. 100% agree with the pva - I dilute it more like 5:1 and it works well - even after mould grew in the container I just took it off the surface, shook the jar and used as normal - if I am in a hurry I heat the glass with a hair dryer to speed up the drying. works for about 10-15 prints and then I wash and re-apply. To make life really easy I have blue tape on the bed under the glass, so if I want to print XT I just take off the glass and take off a little 'end stop fooler' and print the xt - and then do the reverse - often without a re-level I have closed in one of my UMOs https://www.youma
  4. All the vendors have their issues - but IMHO fusion is the way to go. It is not all about features - often it is about resources (like instructional videos etc) and Autodesk has always managed to generate the largest number of user installed seats. I have been an Adesk user for the last 25 years and am by no mans a fanboy (I pay £0,000s for subscriptions to their architectural software) and was amazed when fusion came oiut and had more, and easier functionality that the functions I was using in inventor that I pay a hefty subscription for - so have transferred to F360 while I have inventor on
  5. 2 ways to do it. If they are similar filaments (i.e. both PLA for example) then just release the tensioner on the drive and pull the filament out when the nozzle is hot (immediately after your last print or just use the heat PLA routine, and then just load the new filament. I find it easier if I cut a diagonal cut on the new filament with pliers before I feed it in as it gets into the feed guide, bowden and nozzle easier. Push it into the nozzle until you see a string coming out, tension the filament holder and then manually turn the drive until the old filament has purged and the new filament
  6. 'fast' is a bit of a non word - there is print fast, and move fast and most printers can move fast (between print moves) and slow down during print moves - so the 'speed' part of what they publish can be a bit meaningless. Which machine you buy depends on where you are and what you want to output .... MB has publicly stated they are moving away from the domestic market - they have just laid off another 30% of staff ..... there are other, better machines out there. If I were setting up a 3dp business - while I would LOVE to have a UM3 I would probably buy 2 UM2+ ......... the UM3 has so many d
  7. I would try some other filament that you know to be 'fresh' (I have had this happen on older filament). At the same time I would order all the components for a new hot end and start with a fresh set-up - sometimes it is too gunked up to carry on working - so nozzle, heater, thermister etc. But start with new filament as the nozzle looks clean from one of the shots and it is gradually either clogging or over heating the filament. Check that all the heating routines and temps are for PLA and not for ABS - and drop the temp until the PLA just works.
  8. without the above .... sounds like the nozzle is blocked, but heating, and has come loose so is leaking pla through the threads ...... time to do a bit of hot end maintnance ...... try an atomic pull a few times and then - warm up the nozzle - turn off the printer and gently undo the nozzle - take care here to be gentle or you can break everything - I use a round end spanner and pliers to ease everything apart. then clean everything up (a hot air gun and hard work) - warm up hot end and reassemble. Before you start I would personally have some spare bits for the hot end available as it can be
  9. I use Iroberti's filament cleaner with a bit of oil on it (in the UK 3in1 dripping oil) which smears a thin layer of oil on the whole printer. Not too much oil though or it can 'drip' so really really thin.
  10. Hmmmm - I think there may be some confusion - WD40 is a penetrating oil/cleaner and water dispersal *(hence WD) agent and is used on electrical (cars) to push water away where it is shorting the engine (traditionally sprayed on spark plug leads) and works brilliantly. Also good to a degree as a penetrating oil. 3in1 is a lubricating oil (yes there are other products in the range now that are spray cans etc - so to be clear I am talking about the DRIPPING OIL) and is fine for use on all your axes except the Z axix which should be grease. So if you are spraying it - then NO - if you are drippi
  11. The beauty of fusion 360 is that you can do 3d printing, CAM and laser cutting - pretty much from the same model with slightly different operations. Have to say though that I am an autodesk fanboy and use lots of their other programmes in architecture - so they already had me with the name - they seem to be putting a huge amount of effort into ease of use and features in what is a free programme - better than Inventor which I pay a shedload for! seems to have many of the sketchup features without the failures in su to produce manifold models.
  12. what material are you printing with - each material shrinks to a different amount and this needs to be taken into account when designing tolerances. counteract this by increasing the size of the model by different (small) percentage in cura before you slice. James
  13. OMO no heat, dilute pva on the glass - great adhesion and easy removal. Agree glass needs to be really clean, then paint on a thin layer of diluted PVA - dry withhair dryer or allow to dry naturally and off you go for 10's of prints - I only wash off and reapply when the surface looks bad. I have no heated bed and happily print anywhere and any size on the bed. The only other aspect is to make sure you are only heating up the filament just enough for proper layer adhesion - too much heat in the filament can cause a bit more shrinking in my experience. I never use brim either
  14. I for one am really annoyed - I bought my UMO three years ago and I get what? - nothing??? - oh yeah, I drew a + on it and there is no room for another one - I am really annoyed about that!
  15. Agree with all the above - I use an IRoberti filament cleaner (see youmagine) with light oil (in my case WD40) and a modified UMO extruder and a temp of 240 and a .6mm nozzle and I get a passable result - did a 19 hour print with it last week. Not as good as direct drive, but workable. Rubber down a bowden is always going to be 'tricky'. Semiflex is easier as it is a stiffer filament, but it is also much harder. Play with retraction - pulling rubber down a bowden is also not necessarily the best. So you have picked a tough filament for a bowden setup. Possible, but needs tinkering.
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