Thank you for the reply. The reason I was told to to go to 1,75mm was that it is not breaking as easily as 3mm.
And yes I was talking about ninjaflex. I thought TPE is like the family just like PLA and ninjaflex is the brand. But again what do I know.
You are saying you can print ninjaflex without modifications? That would actually be awesome.
I don't recommend printing 1.75 without some small modifications. 3dsolex sells a nice 1.75mm conversion kit. I've tried it and it works fine. But there's no reason that I know of to go to 1.75mm. All the filament types you might want to print are available in 3mm.
Onto your other question. The thing that makes the Ultimaker somewhat unique is that the feeder and hot end are separated out with the bowden tube in between. This has pros and cons. The main pro is that you get better quality prints because the print head is so light weight that Marlin firmware doesn't slow the head down much on corners so you get equal/even flow from the extruder (a problem if you slow down too much on corners - it over extrudes when it slows down).
But the bowden has cons as well. One of them is that it's difficult to print ninjaflex (as far as I know that's the most flexible material out there). It's like pushing a string through that bowden. But it works. You have to get the "plus" (um2+ or um2ext+) or the UMO or you have to switch out feeders to use the iRoberti feeder (free/open 3d printed feeder for um2 printers). Also you have to print about 5X slower and 20C hotter and you have to add drops of oil to the filament. But it works fine. I've printed many things with ninjaflex. Slightly stiffer flexible materials are even easier to print. TPE is similar to ninjaflex (or maybe the same thing?).
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