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avogra last won the day on August 8 2016

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  1. Ok, I found the issue. Oozing 😑 I hate it when that happens.
  2. Hi, I had a strange phenomenon in my last print. Has anyone seen such outgrowths as in the photo? Some background information: I'm using an Ulitmaker 2 with ollson block and 3d solex race nozzle 0,4 mm Firmware is Tinkerware 16.01 Sliced with Cura 4.6.1 * It is too meaty for stringing and combing was enabled anyway * Maybe partial clogging that releases from time to time? * Maybe the STL file was too detailed and the firmware can't handle the gcode and did some erraneous movements? (gcode appended) * I have a postprocessing script runn
  3. What you mean with inconsistent flow? I note some gaps on layers twice... like some underextrusion dots that made my thin parts weak. But it was in the middle of the object even with low speed of 25-30mm/s at 0.07mm. I was thinking that it maybe occurs becase of the alternative spoon holder (I'm using this one designed to Taulman spoon) without bearings. Exactly that, I too had same layers, that look underextruded and weaken the print. maybe a bigger nozzle is a good idea for linen.
  4. I'm currently using Greentec by extrudr at 210°C. Then I discovered weak layerbonding and thought that I should go back to PlaTec. most prominent case was a part with a wall only 2 perimeters thick. in pla i could easily bend it over 90 degrees without damage, greentec snapped off imediately. i will try it a bit hotter, but i think 210 fairly close to your recommendation.
  5. Never heard of PowR I have used Linen and Silk, and I think they are quite different compared to PlaTec. They both give a very special surface finish but they don't have the mechanical and thermal properties of PlaTec. Linen has quite uneven surface so you don't see the layers anymore. Silk has a very special shimmery gloss, it actually reminds of real silk. They handle overhangs very good too. But I had inconsistent flow with linen a few times. And I wasn't able to reproduce the same silky gloss after the first test. Probably my fault. Anyway after initial enthusiasm, PlaTec is the one filam
  6. +1 I will pitch this to our product owner. I'm hugely in favor of this as well. +1 !!! I think that in general, dragging a part with the mouse should have exactly one function. everything else is irritating. maybe use modifier keys like shift or ctrl for rotate and scale? naybe 3 buttons to rotate 90° in each direction? that would help me out in 99% of cases.
  7. I would also think of Taulman Alloy 910 as a very suitable material. Still didn't try it myself, but looking at most reviews and youtube demos, it seems perfect to me for this type of stress.
  8. I thought, that the main reason for printing a bit smaller than the nozzle size is a nicer connection between adjacent lines and top surfaces with less marks.
  9. Mist, Mac hab ich überlesen, sieht wohl eher schlecht aus :-/ Die gängigsten Technologien und besondere Merkmale sind meines Wissens: Fotogrammetrie: verhältnismäßig einfaches Equipment möglich, Ergebnis hängt stark von der Textur ab, möglichst konstantes Licht benötigt Laserscanner: Scannen von sehr großen Objekten möglich, relativ langsam Streifenlicht / strukturiertes Licht (engl. structured light scanner): hohe Auflösung, schnell, Objekt-Größe begrenzt, Equipment eher teurer Scanner auf Basis Kinect/PrimeSense (streng genommen auf structured light): sehr günstig, sehr grobe Auflös
  10. Ich bin auch sehr begeistert. Wasser brauchts gar nicht. Einfach die Platte auf ein kaltes Fensterbrett legen, nach 10 Sekunden ist die Platte auf Umgebungstemperatur und der Druck geht ab.
  11. Weiß ist nur für Fotogrammetrie ein Problem. für manche Technologien ist das sogar vorteilhaft, ich denke dabei an Laserscanner und structured light Scanner. problematisch sind für die beiden eher glänzende / spiegelnde oder transluzente (z.B. Wachs) Oberflächen. Ich bin mit David3D bzw. jetzt HP 3D Scan ganz glücklich. Das SLS3 würde mit einer Kamera in euer Budget passen. Wo seid ihr denn? evtl. lässt sich ja mal ein Probescan organisieren ;-)
  12. I had the same question and found out by try. You have to glue it on top of the glasplate. DO NOT put it on the aluminium heating plate, it will bend heavily, clips are in the way,... it just doesnt work and is a pain in the a** to remove :-P As there isnt any feedback yet: I'using it for some months now and for me, there is no way going back. buildtak has great adhesion. so great that I stopped using it on glass, as i wasn't able to remove parts at all without damage. With the flexplate, i can remove the parts now. One of my concerns was, that the extra material will make heat transfer wor
  13. I would rather look out for the best printing material. Can't imagine that any coating helps against more than scratches in surface. My suggestion would be to print in Nylon, which is not super stiff, so it can dampen the impact. I think Carbon reinforced material breaks even easier, becausr it is stiffer.
  14. I think that should be doable with the david system. you have plenty of space if you move the drivers seat back. you don't need many different views to scan someting like the A-column, maybe 3 or 4. If the rail is too bulky just be a bit creative with mounting, you only need to make sure, that beamer and camera are fixed relative too each other and they don't move during a scan. Im sorry, but I cant try it for you due to lack of a car :-P
  15. soweit ich gehört hab, hast du halt bei SLA viel gepansche mit hässlichen Chemikalien. Irgendjemand hat mal auf ne ähnliche Frage geantwortet hier, der beides hat und benutzt. Glaub Um2 und Form1. Er meinte, wenns nicht supertoll werden muss, nimmt er immer den UM, anschalten, warten, rausnehmen, fertig. SLA hat wohl auch so seine Regeln, zB große Flächen parallel zur Buildplate sind tunlichst zu vermeiden. Ich hab leider keine Ahnung, wer das geschrieben hat, einer von den Bekannten hier, Labern vielleicht? Glaub die perfekte Drucktechnik gibts nicht. Vllt. kannst du s dir ja mal bei jemand
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