BONDTECH Ultimaker 2 QR extruder upgrade kit 1.75 and 3D Solex Native 1.75mm GRAND KIT

[paul9 20]

If you choose to change the Ultimaker 2 with these two possible solutions and then switch to 1,75mm filaments from the ring that goes to sostiutire the spring remains the same or is changed, you can use what you find on www.youmagine.com realized by Labern?

Is there anyone who has changed the Ultimaker 2 with filaments of 1.75 mm?

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Yes I did (the right one is 1.75mm):

The spacer is from @anders-olsson:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-adjustable-spring-replacement

However, the 1.75mm hotend is connected to a Robert-Feeder while the 2.85mm runs with a Bondtech.

[paul9 20]

Yes I did (the right one is 1.75mm):

The spacer is from @anders-olsson:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-adjustable-spring-replacement

However, the 1.75mm hotend is connected to a Robert-Feeder while the 2.85mm runs with a Bondtech.

 

Thank you

[paul9 20]

But if I use the 1.75-mm kit 3dsolex which one should I use?

This I2 K Spring Replacement Nut or this Std Spring Replacement Nut?

[neotko 1,417]

Just a friendly recommendation. I seen you are using and using mods and mods. I must say that it's very important to actually learn how yo make thinks work instead of throwing cash at the printer. Ofc bondtech and i2k & 1.75 are good mods imo, but there's a long path of learning how to actually print fantastic stuff that doesn't involve modding the machine but learning about each material temperature, speed, adhesion to bed, even cooling. Everything that makes a good print takes time and there's no magical recipe. Well printing slow it's one. Then you learn what you need to speed up, then you find the errors and after a great number of fails you start to get fantastic prints.

So, any mod works, but don't fell down if throwing cash to the printer doesn't instantly make better prints. There much to learn in the process and each & every object needs different settings to get that superb look.

[paul9 20]

Just a friendly recommendation. I seen you are using and using mods and mods. I must say that it's very important to actually learn how yo make thinks work instead of throwing cash at the printer. Ofc bondtech and i2k & 1.75 are good mods imo, but there's a long path of learning how to actually print fantastic stuff that doesn't involve modding the machine but learning about each material temperature, speed, adhesion to bed, even cooling. Everything that makes a good print takes time and there's no magical recipe. Well printing slow it's one. Then you learn what you need to speed up, then you find the errors and after a great number of fails you start to get fantastic prints.

So, any mod works, but don't fell down if throwing cash to the printer doesn't instantly make better prints. There much to learn in the process and each & every object needs different settings to get that superb look.

 

It is clear, that I understood in almost two years of experience already made.

But now the time has come to change something because so far I have not changed anything on my UM2.

[neotko 1,417]

Well I think the bontech feeder it's great, but for 1.75mm I think it's overkill. 1.75 works even without a geared feeder. I would invest on a direct drive sollution with a pancake nema.

Also there's a great mod on this forums that uses more powerful blower fans. I think it's a great mod to cooldown the pla faster. But I haven't tested it since I use even bigger fans (that have their pros/cons).

Going back to your question. I use 1.75 on two machines with i2k. And I use the alu spacer from um2+ and the olsson spacer. As long everything it's set in place, with the correct preassure to avoid leaks, it works.

[paul9 20]

What alternative solution to bondtech you can advise me because I have to use filaments from 1,75mm?

[paul9 20]

Yes I did (the right one is 1.75mm):

The spacer is from @anders-olsson:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-adjustable-spring-replacement

However, the 1.75mm hotend is connected to a Robert-Feeder while the 2.85mm runs with a Bondtech.

 

That the solution adopted for the feeder with the filaments from 1,75mm?

What solution do you recommend I take?

[neotko 1,417]

For direct feeder I would try https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21312-e3d-titan-mount-for-ultimaker-2 until Anders Olsson finishes his design (that will be lighter). That post it's in french but it's worth every page.

Also if you have the um2+ feeder, this solution looks very nice for 1.75mm, I might even try it since I have one unused.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21837-passer-du-175-dans-le-nouveau-feeder

[paul9 20]

For direct feeder I would try https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21312-e3d-titan-mount-for-ultimaker-2 until Anders Olsson finishes his design (that will be lighter). That post it's in french but it's worth every page.

Also if you have the um2+ feeder, this solution looks very nice for 1.75mm, I might even try it since I have one unused.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21837-passer-du-175-dans-le-nouveau-feeder

 

No direct but bowen tube

[neotko 1,417]

You mean you want bowden. For 1.75 you can just use IRobertI feeder. I use the standard one, with a MK7 and a printed guide for the filament. It works. I'm doing a redesign of the IRobertI feeder so it fits better for mk7, but isn't necessary atm.

Also if you want to use the knurled bolt form um2, you can use this modded IRobertI feeder body by @Dim3nsioneer https://www.youmagine.com/designs/body-of-iroberti-s-feeder-for-1-75mm If he use it it must work.

The point it's, there are gazillion ways to do the same, it's a matter of how much time you want to spend tuning everything. If I had the cash I would probably would buy the 50€ kit version of bondtech and assemble it on a simple feeder, since for 1.75mm if you push too hard it's quite easy to break the filament inside the bowden because it will twist on itself and snap if the force to push it it's higher than what it can hold. Long story short, everything needs it's settings.

[paul9 20]

You mean you want bowden. For 1.75 you can just use IRobertI feeder. I use the standard one, with a MK7 and a printed guide for the filament. It works. I'm doing a redesign of the IRobertI feeder so it fits better for mk7, but isn't necessary atm.

Also if you want to use the knurled bolt form um2, you can use this modded IRobertI feeder body by @Dim3nsioneer https://www.youmagine.com/designs/body-of-iroberti-s-feeder-for-1-75mm If he use it it must work.

The point it's, there are gazillion ways to do the same, it's a matter of how much time you want to spend tuning everything. If I had the cash I would probably would buy the 50€ kit version of bondtech and assemble it on a simple feeder, since for 1.75mm if you push too hard it's quite easy to break the filament inside the bowden because it will twist on itself and snap if the force to push it it's higher than what it can hold. Long story short, everything needs it's settings.

 

Thank you neotko.

Can I have the link of the page kit from 50 € to bondtech.

[neotko 1,417]

http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/kits/bondtech-directdrive-gears.html

It's the main component without the planetary geared nema.

[paul9 20]

http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/kits/bondtech-directdrive-gears.html

It's the main component without the planetary geared nema.

 

So if I purchase this component then how should I proceed on the feeder of my UM2?

[neotko 1,417]

You would have to design or adapt a design for a feeder. Maybe someone else did that. Check youmagine/thingiverse