Newbie in serious trouble

[ronc 0]

Ok, before you laugh, before you get into anything technical please remember i am not anywhere nearly as versed or as savvy as you.... I am seriously stuck. I am going to be as thorough as possible.

I am totally new to 3d printing.

I am an inventor and this was to help me through the phases of getting my designs in place

I have a new (3-4 months old) Ultimaker 2 extended + I went this way because of the 0.25 nozzle

My parts at approx .75 inch x 1/4 very small.

I am printing in nylon... i have had some prior success using the CPE setting with nylon previously

Suddenly out of now where after say 6 prints everything went wrong and has continued that way

I am very frustrated, deflated and burnt out...

I have to use nylon

I am using taubman 618 3mm

I am fed, refed, tried setting up and down...

I have leveled releveled etc..

The brims were coming out perfect then the print in a verticle print again 1/4" wide building on the tip up

3/4" inch.

Now the brim prints and then the nozzle just smooshed into the print as it extrudes it keeps pushing the

print around and out of place.

i have a guy who wrote the gcode, he has written rewritten and made a dozen adjustments.

I would be happy to send this to anyone to try it

I need to be worked through every setting to get this right.

I know i am asking alot from someone but this has been 7 weeks of lost prints, hours and hours and days and days

of frustration to the point i am going to get rid of the printer.

It is seriously holding me back

If someone will aloow me to send them the gcode and tell me by phone or by team viewer to share my laptop

to walk me through this i would be greatful. if need be i could pay someone for the hour.

Thanks for reading

Best,

Ron

sixtyninejets@yahoo,com

[valcrow 144]

I'm sorry but your post is a little hard to follow.

From what I gather,

-You're trying to print nylon

-The print is coming off the buildplate after printing a brim.

-Your guy is writing custom gcode? or just slicing your object?

-Did he design your object/gcode? Is what you're trying to print an actual 3D model sliced into Gcode? or something else more experimental?

If you're having 'sticking' issues on the glass bed, you should try using blue tape cleaned with alcohol.

Lastly if you post pictures of your failures, it will help people here to diagnose the issues you are having.

[avogra 68]

Nylon is really nasty stuff to print. Especially getting it to stick to the buildplate. Quite a challenge if you call yourself a newbie, but you will get it done too

A) Bed adhesion: Up to now did you use anything to help the print stick to the bed? Or are you printing on clean glass? If so, you have no chance. You definitely need something to improve adhesion. There are many options that should work, like valcrows hint. I had good luck with woodglue (D2) diluted in water and some puffs of window cleaner. There is also those adhesive sprays or surfaces like Buildtak. I think many work and everyone has to find their own favorite.

B) Moisture: Nylon is highly hygroscopic and soaks a lot of water from the air. If you leave it open on the bench for a day, it already starts to print worse. I always keep the spools in a closed plastic bag with several desiccants. I found some type that changes color when they are saturated so you know when to put them in an oven to regenerate. Also, if you have any relation to electronics, there are small cards packaged with sensitive microchips, that signal the level of humidity changing color from blue to violet above 5%, 10% and 50%.  When I print small parts, I get the spool out of the bag just before printing and put it back immediately after. If the print takes longer, I put the spool in a bucket with a cap and only let open a slit to feed the filament to the printer. In there, I too put some desiccant bags.

If your filament is already soaked with water, you can dry it in an oven. I didn't have to yet, maybe someone else has experience? You will notice bubbling/spitting sounds from the hotend when the nylon has soaked water.

C) Type of Nylon: I haven't tried Taulman 618, only Bridge and 230. From what I heard, 618 is their first Nylon and they improved printability with each new type. So Bridge is probably easier to print than 618. The quite new Alloy 910 is said to be the easiest according to Taulman3D. With those newer versions they also reduced the hygroscopic effect. Do you have to use 618?

D) Print settings: Which print settings do you use? The last settings I wrote in my notes are Hotend: 240°C, Bed: 75°C, printspeed 30..40mm/s, layerheight 0,15mm. But that was for Nylon Bridge, no idea, if 618 is behaves very different. As always, a good bed leveling is crucial.

Good luck, sooner or later this stuff will have to give in to you

Edited August 5, 2016 by Guest
inserted some line breaks