Ulticreatr Dual Extrusion upgrade

[Shane 3]

Hello community,

I was wondering if anybody out there has this kit and has it working with the heated bed.

And if so I'd love to hear how you did it. I bought this kit about 2 months ago and still cant get it to work.

[Labern 773]

Have you been able to get it to work without the heated bed?

What is the quality like in this case?

[meduza 191]

I am pretty sure that you cannot use that one with the heated bed by default since the power supply will be overloaded and turn itself off, causing the printer to reboot (since it got very high-power heater cartridges)

You would need to get a heftier power supply (at least 350W @ 24V), and then there is the question about if the mainboard will heat up too much and need a cooling fan because of the extra current.

A dirtier (but possibly cheaper) way of doing it would be to add a solid-state relay to the heated bed output on the board, and power the heated bed from another power supply trough the SSR.

[Gebbi80 0]

Hello,

what about if I install the Ulticreatr 2x update kit and replace the heater cartridges by ones with only 25W heating power?

--> is it possible to heat both nozzles and the head bed at the same time?

Best regards, Gebbi

[meduza 191]

Yes, then you will be able to power the bed, but you will probably not be able to print, since 25W is probably not enough power to heat the head to print temperatures with all the extra cooling the Ulticreatr 2x kit has...

[Gebbi80 0]

As I understood, the standard Ultimaker 2 has 25W heating power.

Is the cooling of the Ulticreatr 2x kit really much better so that the 2x25W are not enough to heat up the heads?

Does anyone have experience with Ulticreatr 2x and 2x25W?

Otherwise, what is the best solution to work with 2x35W (heating of both hotends and the build plate activated at the same time)?

[meduza 191]

Well, it not that the cooling is "better", and i have not tried that kit myself, but from what i have seen, they solve the problem of being able to rapidly cool/heat the nozzles when switching, by adding a huge heat sink that pulls away a lot of heat from the heater block continuously (which makes it cool very fast when the power is turned off), and counteract that by adding extreme 75W heaters to be able to keep the temperature up when printing.

Since they opted for 75W heaters, i do believe that a 25W heater (1/3rd of the power) would not be enough to heat it to printing temperatures.