Thank you for the clarification of the various Z-axis functions.
I didn't see a hex key in the packaging, just the one regular size tool, tape, etc.
If you know the exact type / size of tool I can probably get it locally (I'm guessing metric)
FYI: the reset axis did seem to act differently at one point than autohome, and was the closest I came to getting a print. I had been trying to print from Cura and had cancelled a bouple times. Then I had done autohome, and then printed from Cura. When Cura started printing, it moved the platform down and was printing "in air". So I cancelled printing, did autohome again, then this time "reset axis", then printed from Cura. It came a lot closer that time. Maybe Cura print / cancel / print / cancel puts the software in some odd state, so that autohome and reset axis act differently? Just a theory.
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Daid 304
First, congratulations on one of the first pre-assembled Ultimakers.
Both directions of platform fitting work. But it's best to always do it the same.
Yes, the wood warps. It warps during assembly. But it also warps a bit over time due to moister getting in the wood. Wood always works a bit.
Most likely, after transport, you will need to level out the platform again. We need to assemble a "user guide" explaining the first steps after unboxing your new pre-assembled printer. We noticed a bit late that this was a huge oversight from us and it's in the work.
For the assumptions:
* The limit switch should be right, but the bed will need some leveling again after transport. Cura should help you with this with the bed-leveling-wizard.
* Autohome should put the printer-head to the front left corner with the nozzle on the printerbed
* The "reset axes" really does nothing (it sets the current position as 0,0,0. But Autohome also does that in a better way), as well as "autostart", those are a bit of odd features and have no real use so ignore them. They will be left out from the menus in the next firmware.
However, if I read your final bit as a "normal assembled" ultimaker, I would give the advice to check your Z screw coupler. It's the aluminum round bit that connects the motor and the screw. If you try to move the Z and you can hear the motor, check if you see the coupler rotating and the screw is not rotating. Or the motor rotating and the coupler not rotating. Because it really sounds like this part has come lose during transport.
There should have been a small hex key with your machine to tighten the screws in there in case they came lose (they are the only smaller screws in the machine that cannot be tightened with the standard hex screwdriver)
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