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JO3

e3D print head not reaching temperature

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I've just set up an e3D v6 print head on my ultimaker original, using the same thermistor, heater cartridge as came with my UMO. I've wired up an always on fan to cool the heat sink, and two side fans that come on as usual when printing.

I'm starting to run a couple of test prints and have run into a couple of issues.

The temperature reaches 200 very quickly (about 1-2 minutes) however then takes about 10 minutes to reach 230 degrees. I'm trying to preheat to 250 but it then won't go any further past 230.

I'm not entirely sure what might be causing this but thought that it might be the always on cooling down the print head too much. I also read a post from someone having similar issues (https://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/hot-end-hovering-below-target-and-never-reaching.281/) however, it refers to a page on PID autotuning. I'm not entirely sure how to run this, and how to modify PID settings through Cura or any othet software.

Any help/ advice would be much appreciated.

Thank you!

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Isn't the UMO heater not to large for the E3D heater block. I guess it would stick out quite a bit. I have a E3D but it is using the 24V heater from E3D and it easily reaches 260 degrees. So my guess is that the longer heater of the UMO can not convert all its heat into the heaterblock of the E3D. I don't think it is the always on fan the heat transfer from the block to cooling body is designed to keep it at minimum and the E3D heater can also cope with it.

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Hi Zoev89,

Thanks for your reply, how would I install the E3D heater cartridge? I thought I couldn't wire it the same as the original because it's 24v and the power supply is 19v.

Also, I was going by the information here ( https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_1 ) that says that the UM heater is compatible with the heater block

Edited by Guest

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Hi JO3,

That is for me difficult to say since I am using the E3D 24V printer heater and I modified my printer to run from my 24V power brick which is also running the heated build-plate. I think some of the members have done what you have done but you would have to dig through the forum.

I don't know if you could measure with a oscilloscope on the heater output? You would see a relative high frequency block wave. While heating it should be almost DC on and at a stable temperature you would see the square wave. Now if you would heat further to 260 degrees and it is not reaching that and the output is DC then it is defiantly not the PID. Maybe a simple voltmeter could help but it would depend on how it reacts to the square wave. While heating it would read about 19V and while stable it is less.

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