Yes using the Matchless V3 , but did not change the 25W heater.
Should have try the 35W heater.
Currently can print but need 230 deg for PLA vs 220. and also slower print speed.
Tried both the 0.4 and 0.6mm nozzle - 0.6 mm perform better.
Will change the heater later
Are you sure you have inserted the temp sensor and heater cartridge as expected? Maybe check that.
Also, the Stainless steel nozzle is usually 0.5mm and not 0.4mm
There are now 0.4mm Stainless Steel Nozzles.
Are you sure they are Stainless Steel and not Chrome plated Brass Nozzles?
It may not be stainless steel after all.
I have changed to the 35W heater. same problem have to print at 235 to 238 for PLA
Have not upgraded the feeder though. It keep skipping during print.
When was the last time you changed you PTFE coupler?
Or are you using TFM or TFT coupler?
When was the last time you changed you PTFE coupler?
Or are you using TFM or TFT coupler?
The PTFE coupler is a new one.
I suspect it could be the new filament I purchase from 3DXTEXT.
Have been using this filament for almost 1 year without problem.
There are no stainless nozzles in that kit.
I would suspect that you damaged your temp sensor when replacing the block?
There are no stainless nozzles in that kit.
I would suspect that you damaged your temp sensor when replacing the block?
Yea my bad , it is on the other one.
Anyway both my heater and temp sensor are new.
I have reverted back to the original nozzle .
Print temperature is still have to set at 235 to 238 deg C.
Infill speed have to be slow down.
Suspect it is the filament problem. Getting back to 3dxTech.
Thanks everyone for the info.
I am almost 3 years now using my upgraded UM2 - Bondtech DDG with spacer adapter and printed gear, 3dsolex kit and Teflon adapter and ring, 40w heat cartridge.
Ultimately using petg, 245 temp in nozzle.
along this period strange things happening, way more than happiness.
Heat block and feeder were upgraded at the same time, what brought some confusing data.
Heat block:
-leaking was an eternal issue, only recently solved with thermal paste (never used before).
-never achieved the alleged “minus 10 degrees when printing at normal speed”.
-the block won’t accept other nozzles than 3D solex ones
-it is essentially impossible to print something nice with larger width line than nozzle size.
feeder
-since the first time installed it emitted some cracking noises. It was not the skipping steps from stepper motor.
there are some space tolerances that leads to the gears stop connecting to each other what causes the horrible noise.
certainly there is some increasing pressure in the system, which can only be targeted to the heat block - now bondtech has launched a similar type os nozzle tech, with a huge difference: the hollow size is way bigger and there are 3 big spaces, contrary to the 3D solex wick resembles a real wall with only 2 little holes.
Getting back to the feeder, it’s unacceptable a feeder give in before the stepper motor.
Now I have to make a change - or two - to make some tests.
Getting both upgrade living in Brazil is already a madness. Way expensive, impossible to sell or send back. The possibility of not being able to use both is a massacre to the soul.
Anyone here could help me?
I seriously thought about printing the DDG case and using the internals but never found the files ou STL
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Labern 774
Do you have the Olsson block or the Matchless V3 like your title shows?
Also why are you using a stainless steel nozzle for PLA? Stainless steel nozzles have bad heat transfer and are not suited for PLA.
They are not even good for abrasive materials. E3D Hardened nozzle and the Ruby nozzle are a lot better.
If you have a UM2 then I would recommend upgrading the heater. The UM2 has a 25w heater and UM2+ has a 35w heater.
If you want to print with the big nozzles like 2mm then I would get the 40w.
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