Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Recommended Posts

Can anyone tell me the importance of the 1mm setting in the bed levelling routine, has it any purpose? I am wanting to level my bed with a DTi but before I start messing around need an answer to this question.

I also presume there is a figure in the firmware that it thinks the paper is a thickness 0.10? if I level the bed by running the head back and forth as you would with a mill and dial in the level in the x and y then zeroe will still have to be done say with a shim and I could use say 0.10 0.25 depending on whether I was using Glass or BuildTak...

any help appreciated...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I changed the flow after starting to use buildtak. I do the full bed leveling occasionally and then down to where the paper stops moving.

However after changing nozzles I use the feature from tinkergnome fw, "Adjust Z position". First cleaning the nozzle, and then move it to the point where it touches the build plate with no gap (visually eyeballing it). Then as this function gives you actual numbers, I dial it back 0,2 mm if using ABS or copolyesters like ngen, or 0,1 for PLA or similar types.

It is much faster and I feel I have better control. So far my buildtaks have died of old age instead of fused prints.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's interesting I went to great pains to get paper 0.25 I used originally 0.20 but my print fused the difference made the print remove from BT with a bit of persuasion, but no marks.

I used Ngen Flex at this point and worked well no heated bed though..

I will look to see if this feature is in my Firmware from Tinkernome v16.3

when you say you dialled it back if I get this right, you set the nozzle to the build plate as just touching then dialled the offset say -0.25

correct????

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 1mm is because, if you best is tilted enough, adjusting one screw might lift the other side, causing the head to crash there if it moves again.

We never do the 1mm at the office ;-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
when you say you dialled it back if I get this right, you set the nozzle to the build plate as just touching then dialled the offset say -0.25

 

Yes, that is how I do it. Be a bit careful, if you move it to far it is not visible because you effectively are pushing the build plate down with the nozzle, but you have very good control.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AreDigg

been trying settings with Build Tak PLA Colour fab

I went to advanced and selected z height adjustment, I set my nozzle to just touching 16.48 on my um screen and left it there I didn't back it off at all, build tak didn't like it PLA not sticking so I uped the temp range to 218 for the first layer then down to 215 and 210 does this sound feasible, not sure if the print will come of yet??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I set my nozzle to just touching 16.48 on my um screen and left it there I didn't back it off at all

 

Did not see you had replied before now.

I use colorfabb PLA at 200℃ and bed at 60℃ with buildtak. I have not have any problem with it not sticking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I know, but just asked the question in a different way as when I did the z adjustment it didn't operate in the way I expected, to get PLA to stick I was actually touching the "BT" in the z menue - and had to go to 40d heated bed for it to stick, which I didn't expect,, N-GenFlex I backed off the z Position and no heated bed worked a treat,,,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I know, but just asked the question in a different way as when I did the z adjustment it didn't operate in the way I expected

 

I guess it depends also how flat your build plate is. Do you stick the buildtak to a glass plate or something else? The clips pushes the plate down more on the corners than in the centre so it will be the tallest point on the plate. But if your plate is stiff enough it should not matter too much as long as it is even.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm using the Flexy plate system so the magnetic base is stuck to UM2 alloy bed then the plate on top of that.. I did away with the Glass (Bad Decision) so now if I want to use the Glass it goes on top of the magnetic base plate when I make some custom holders to keep it put......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Announcements

  • Our picks

    • Architect Design Contest | Vehicles.
      We're open for entries! - Design and submit your 3D designs of architectural entourage - vehicles - for a chance to win a large filament pack. Presenting an idea, an architectural design or something as big as an urban project isn't easy. A scaled model can really help to get your idea across.
        • Like
      • 25 replies
    • What The DfAM?
      I'm Steve Cox, an experienced engineer familiar with 3D printing. I wanted to share some DfAM guidelines with this community to help and make stronger parts.
      I'm also an Autodesk Certified Instructor for Fusion 360, so many of the images in ...
        • Thanks
        • Like
      • 23 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!