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Settings question from the Noobverse


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Posted · Settings question from the Noobverse

OK, I have printed a lot of cubes and cones and such. Do so for every material and type and degree of detail (draft, fine, etc) I am testing. Some materials I have tested, those settings apply across the board for each detail level, i.e. geometric objects as mentioned previously, as well as organic shapes with swoops and curvy angles and such.

But, some of the materials, when printing the test objects do not do so well when going from geometric to organic.

So, my noobishness makes me wonder if it is me, or the materials and is something to adjust for?

Thanks :)

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    Posted · Settings question from the Noobverse

    Actually, I thought the question spoke well as a general idea (But I am an extreme doof in spoken communications), but here you go :)

    All prints were made without supports and using PVA as the brim.

    This is the basic cube test, clean as a whistle:


    This is an exterior using the same settings, Really 'crunchy' results:


    This is an interior of the same print, just as crunchy:


    This a reset of the material settings from the exterior (smooth as silk)


    And finally an interior shot with the adjusted settings:


    So, in general theory, there is a difference between straight line results from organic, swoopy contours. I just did not expect that. Could be material dependent as this was T-Glase and previous attempts that did not happen were with PLA or Nylon.

    I will have to replicate this model in Nylon specifically to see though if this is unique to this shape or just in general.

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    Posted · Settings question from the Noobverse

    To get the best results the settings are model dependant. But generally if you find the best settings for a complicated print the a square will print really well.

    So does shape matter, yes. But a so called swoopy shape can mostly print better then a square.

    But the things that effect it the most are vertical angles, bridging, lots of retractions, islands that are far apart and small points.

    A square is pretty easy to print. No need for retractions, no need for good cooling, no fine points that will over heat etc.

    So it you want to play around to find the best settings for a material the look for a torture test and optimize the setting for that.

    You can find some here.

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    Posted (edited) · Settings question from the Noobverse

    Great Link! I have tried a few, but started to move into my own models.

    And shape dependence is what I was thinking of.

    To clarify, I heated the PETG and T-Glase(both are working well on the same settings) up to 235 and slowed it down to 35 MM/S. That made the difference.

    Thanks!! And, thanks for reading between my poor communication skills.

    Edit: I also made the Layer height 0.22 and line width 0.4.....

    Edited by Guest
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