print nozzel keeps jamming

[0235 24]

Hello All,

i have an ultimaker original V1

I keep running into an issue with my printer where it will get part way through a print, and then jam up. i have attached a picture of waht happens to the fillament inside the nozzel, and i have to keep removing the bowden tube from the heated nozzel every single time it jams.

im on my 5th attempt today of a piece that should be simple. is there any advice on how to fix this?

[DidierKlein 729]

Hi,

There is no pictures attached!

How many hours of printing has your machine done? Maybe it's a good time to change the coupler?

[rowiac 53]

As @DidierKlein says, get yourself a new teflon coupler if you haven't changed it in a while. Try atomic pulls first to make sure the nozzle and brass tube are clear.

In my experience, if the coupler is worn (e.g., no longer seals well against the PEEK isolator, you will get filament jams after printing a while as the heat transfers upward toward the coupler and the filament softens--especially if you are doing a lot of retractions.

[0235 24]

I replaced the entire nozzel asembly just over a year ago, and have barely run 4 spools of colourfabb material through it.

when i first changed it everything seemed ok, printed only a few things (im a very light user) but in the recent 6 months it constantly jams and it happens inthe same way, somewho the plastic finds a way between the bottom of the bowden tube, and inside the hot end isolator coupler.

But i will have a closer look at the coupler, and maybe even the brown PEEK part.

the bowden tube is also quite worn out near the nozzel end (do to constantly being removed). i have heard that bowden tube accuracy is vital for good prints, do you think this could be another reason for having issues?

[tomnagel 126]

I had the same with my Ultimaker original, also not so very long after I changed the teflon part and the nozzle. I noticed that underextrusion only happened at startup of the first print. When I aborted, and started the print the second time, it printed fine.

I never got around to solving it, because I installed an UM2+ upgrade in my UM original. But I think there is a ridge somewhere where the cooled down PLA gets stuck.

[rowiac 53]

I replaced the entire nozzel asembly just over a year ago, and have  barely run 4 spools of colourfabb material through it.

when i first changed it everything seemed ok, printed only a few things (im a very light user) but in the recent 6 months it constantly jams and it happens inthe same way, somewho the plastic finds a way between the bottom of the bowden tube, and inside the hot end isolator coupler.

But i will have a closer look at the coupler, and maybe even the brown PEEK part.

the bowden tube is also quite worn out near the nozzel end (do to constantly being removed). i have heard that bowden tube accuracy is vital for good prints, do you think this could be another reason for having issues?

You can try trimming off a bit of the end of the bowden tube to make it square against the teflon coupler again. You will need a very clean cut with an X-acto knife or razor blade.

[0235 24]

Turns out a screw in the top was completely loose. this cause the Black Y shaped assembly to be able to lift, causing a gap between the bowden tube and the teflon coupler, and then soft fillament would flow into that gap.

so strange how such a small thing can cuase so many problems.

dissasembled the whole top to get that screw back on, and just printed off a very intricate piece (which i have printed many many times) and its probably the best quality one i have ever done!

[rowiac 53]

@0235:

Thanks for the follow up. That may help others in the future.