HELP Please

[R32ool 0]

Hello

I need some help please... I've been printing a few things today & on one of the prints I had a collision that caused some strange noises much like the belts were skipping on the pulleys. they all look ok & in place but when I tried to print something the print was off centre ...

so I cleared the build plate & carried out an x-y alignment to check & instead of them being X = -1 & Y = 0 that they were initially & have been since I bought it 2 months ago they're X = -8 & y = +6 and I'm slightly concerned that I may have knocked something out & I'm concerned that using it may do more harm than good.

is there any way I can set up the X Y to where it was before ? as I've tried a factory reset & it hasn't made any difference what so ever

[DidierKlein 729]

Hi,

If i understand correctly there was a colision somehow during a print, and now it seems that the print cores have lost there calibration?

Seems odd to me, have you tried maybe taking the cores out and putting them back again? Or just checking they are fully inserted?

[R32ool 0]

Hi there.

Yes that's what i was trying to explain. I reaslise my initial discription wasn't the best' I was in such a panic that I didn't explain properly. & No I've not removed the print heads that was my first path of attack this morning after finding myself a cuppa.

i have another two print cores so it'll be nice to see where they compare & then find out why they're out of line so much. ?

[gr5 2,167]

Please mark in your settings that you have a UM3 as I was assuming this was UM2.

This is interesting. This is a new one for me. Please take some photos with the fan door open and closed. I'm thinking the cores *did* move the tiniest bit.

Keep in mind that -6 is probably something like 0.06mm. Not a very large amount. So to be able to see that kind of movement visually will be very tricky.

HOWEVER, what you describe earlier sounds very different - it sounds like the head reached it's limit in either X or Y. Could this have happened at the very start of the print during homing?

I guess you need to get the problem to be more repeatable and describe exactly where the head is when it happens and which way the print is offest. With pictures please also.

The HORRIBLE noise that the printer makes when the heat hits an edge and the steppers keep going sound like your printer is destroyed but it's actually mostly harmless. This has probably happened to every UM printer out there and very few actually had any kind of damage. One of my printers has probably done this 30 times now with no reduction in quality.

[R32ool 0]

Hi Gr5

I believe I have marked my printer down as a UM3. I can see it under my name & also under my name in this post. Is it not visible to others ?

As for the problem with the Calibration. I've replaced both print cores with the spares I had & re done the X-Y calibration & its back to X = 0 & Y = -1 So the problem seems to be with the cores I had installed.

Before removing them I checked that they were installed properly & checked all the belts were tensioned correctly & it all checked out.

It's a bit of a conundrum I'm fairly new to 3D Printing this being my first. But I'm fairly good & mechanically minded but this has me stumped. Soon as I use the other/s cores the X Y jumps out whereas before the collision & jam of the print they were spot on centre like the cores that replaced them.

[R32ool 0]

hello

well I seem to have found the problem' I've been racking my brain trying to think what the problem could be & as it only seemed to be with the print cores rather than the printer' I decided to take a closer look at them. at first glance they look to be perfect & you'd never notice anything wrong with them.

until I compressed the tab like when inserting it' then it all became clear so to speak. & afterwards I remember taking the print-core out to clean some off excess material that had formed on the nozzle & dropping it' which I really didn't think twice about & thinking to myself that was lucky' but I guess not. it seems to have landed right on the tip & kinked the tube slightly..

so I guess I'll need a new one as this seems an unlikely fix. but at least the issue is resolved.

[gr5 2,167]

If you were in USA I could fix that for you.  3dsolex has spares of that part you bent.  You could ask for a custom order to get just that part and try to replace it yourself.  I have a video of how to take that all apart without breaking anything:

Damn.  Can't post videos with underscores or maybe an 8 followed by a D.  Paste this into youtube search:

um3 ultimaker 3 core disassembly

The cores are amazingly delicate where you bent it.  Realize that inside that area 3mm filament has to pass through so those walls are very thin.

Edited April 24, 2017 by Guest

[R32ool 0]

Hi Gr8

Yeah that's a shame tbh. & funny enough I've been looking at the 3D solex print core as a replacement but I wasn't sure which one to go for I'd like a Gaurantee so the DIY one is out. Which leaves the hardcore six or the hardcore EHT ?

Don't much like the price of either of them. Lol. But I do need a replacement & I may as well make it a good replacement I guess. Although if I can get a replacement core part I might repair the damaged one as well. As I was going to keep it for spares if it couldn't be replaced ..maybe I'll message them & see what they can supply me with.

[gr5 2,167]

He's crazy busy but order the non EHT - it goes well above 280C already - and then before you order also ask for a price for a replacement "delicate steel part" that goes inside the core. Tell him you also will be ordering a hardcore kit.

[R32ool 0]

HI GR5

Sorry for the delayed response ( been slightly under the weather ) so it's the hardcore 6 & that delicate part to order ..I was going to add some of his ruby tipped nozzles to my order ..I'm really big into RC Aircraft so printing Carbons will come in quite handy & so do most of my associates so they'll come handy also.

Although I couldn't find a method of contact ? Such as an email address not even after I'd made an account so I think I'll just have to call to order the delicate part but that's ok. ( presuming he speaks English ) could become quite embarasing otherwise

Edited May 1, 2017 by Guest

[gr5 2,167]

You can use carl _at_ 3dsolex.com

He is also here on the forums: @swordriff

[R32ool 0]

Oh wow Thank you. I hate phone calls tbh. I always end up hanging up & forgetting something ...emails are much easier lol.

So the email you gave me is the " at " the symbol at ? & the _ things they stay the same ?

I'm guessing your not allowed email addresses in the forums ?

But I did find his profile as well thanks.

[gr5 2,167]

It's allowed to do email addresses but spammers grab up emails from web pages and this is a web page. I don't want his email spams to jump by 100 per day.

Yes, change "_at_" to "@".

[R32ool 0]

Hi

I guessed it was ...I emailed Carl yesterday & he gave me a great deal on the replacement parts. as I ordered a hardcore print core. & some everlast nozzles at the same time. So hopefully they'll be here shortly ...

& I see what you mean about the emails !... I get at least & 30 per day myself & they're so annoying' so that was a good idea.