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Ultimaker 3 heater error on the print head slot 1 ER15.
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· Ultimaker 3 heater error on the print head slot 1 ER15.
There is no such thing as a reliable 3d printer whether you spend $300, $3000, or $300K. I mean it takes some learning and things can go wrong. But the UM3 is much better than most in it's price range. It's more like owning a cnc milling machine than owning a 2D printer as far as "plug and play".
heater error is worrying. It may be a bad core. The easy thing to try is to mark that core as "bad" and try the other AA core instead. Of course you will now have to recalibrate this new combination of cores.
If you are handy and have a multimeter I would ohm out the heater on the core when it's not installed. It should be almost exactly 23 ohms. If you find it is instead closer to say 30 ohms then there is probably a bad connection or a bad heater. I would also try gently tugging on those wires where they connect to the PCB to see if they are loose and to see if the resistance changes when you do that.
Clogging can happen. What material were you printing that clogged? ABS clogs quite easily. Or if you have a lot of dust on the filament the dust can travel slowly with the filament through the tube and into the nozzle where it clogs. If you have a dusty environment you might want to build a filter out of a kleenex and some oil and some string that cleans the filament as it enters the feeder.
You should read about "cold pulls for um3" to get that nozzle unclogged. If it's an ABS then things may be tricky. If you destroy it then this might be a good time to trade it in and upgrade to a hardcore which can take multiple nozzle sizes (full disclosure - I sell those so I'm biased).
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Strap in for the first Cura release of 2024! This 5.7 beta release brings new material profiles as well as cloud printing for Method series printers, and introduces a powerful new way of sharing print settings using printer-agnostic project files! Also, if you want to download the cute dinosaur card holder featured below, it was specially designed for this release and can be found on Thingiverse!
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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gr5 2,157
There is no such thing as a reliable 3d printer whether you spend $300, $3000, or $300K. I mean it takes some learning and things can go wrong. But the UM3 is much better than most in it's price range. It's more like owning a cnc milling machine than owning a 2D printer as far as "plug and play".
heater error is worrying. It may be a bad core. The easy thing to try is to mark that core as "bad" and try the other AA core instead. Of course you will now have to recalibrate this new combination of cores.
If you are handy and have a multimeter I would ohm out the heater on the core when it's not installed. It should be almost exactly 23 ohms. If you find it is instead closer to say 30 ohms then there is probably a bad connection or a bad heater. I would also try gently tugging on those wires where they connect to the PCB to see if they are loose and to see if the resistance changes when you do that.
Clogging can happen. What material were you printing that clogged? ABS clogs quite easily. Or if you have a lot of dust on the filament the dust can travel slowly with the filament through the tube and into the nozzle where it clogs. If you have a dusty environment you might want to build a filter out of a kleenex and some oil and some string that cleans the filament as it enters the feeder.
You should read about "cold pulls for um3" to get that nozzle unclogged. If it's an ABS then things may be tricky. If you destroy it then this might be a good time to trade it in and upgrade to a hardcore which can take multiple nozzle sizes (full disclosure - I sell those so I'm biased).
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