Layceramic+PVA

[Gamliel 1]

Has anyone tried to use a ceramic filament with PVA?

I understand you have to use different temperatures for the two filaments.

Is it possible to have this configuration with the Ultimaker 3?

Thanks.

[Labern 718]

I haven't tried using layceramic. But you can set different temps and other print settings for both materials to get great results for both. This is something that you would need to experiment with.

I would just check to make sure that the filament is not abrasive before using it in a standard UM core or it will not last Long.

You could use a hard core from 3D solex and use an everlast nozzle if you find it is abrasive.

Also PVA may not stick to layceramic. So requesting a sample might be a good idea just to check.

[Timothy_Egoroff 0]

Hi i Have just purchased a hardcore hot end for the UM3 from 3Dsolex.com, and a ruby nozzle from Imaginables.com for printing abrasive filaments, and i am wondering what sort of (3rd party) extruder would be best for extruding the Layceramic filament, I found an SLA printed 3rd party extruder set on 3Dsolex.com called: 'DDG Bondtech for Ultimaker 3'. 

If neither the default extruder, or this DDG Bondtech extruder are suitable, then would another type of Hobbed Gear Extruder be suitable (given the criteria of avoiding possible grinding and filament breakage from excess pressure)?

Edited June 11 by Timothy_Egoroff

[gr5 1,024]

I never heard of "layerceramic filament".  Do you mean laybrick?  I tried googling but didn't find anything (was lazy - only 10 seconds searching).  Tell us more about this filament.

 

Did you try the existing feeder with this filament?  Was there a problem?  If you fight the feeder when the filament is only half way down the tube - how many kg of force does it take before the filament slips?  Normally with PLA it's about 4-7kg.  Is layerceramic extra flexible or does it have a hard outer surface?

 

Anyway the DDG feeder for UM3 works nicely.  You can buy the DDG for UM2 if you only want to do feeder 1.  The UM2+ feeder and the left feeder on the UM3 are identical.

 

Oh wait - maybe not.  Because the instructions for DDG for UM3 have you change the steps/mm setting for both feeders - I can't see any way to change only one feeder steps/mm without also changing the other.

 

[Timothy_Egoroff 0]

42 minutes ago, gr5 said:

I never heard of "layerceramic filament".  Do you mean laybrick?  I tried googling but didn't find anything (was lazy - only 10 seconds searching).  Tell us more about this filament.

 

Did you try the existing feeder with this filament?  Was there a problem?  If you fight the feeder when the filament is only half way down the tube - how many kg of force does it take before the filament slips?  Normally with PLA it's about 4-7kg.  Is layerceramic extra flexible or does it have a hard outer surface?

 

Anyway the DDG feeder for UM3 works nicely.  You can buy the DDG for UM2 if you only want to do feeder 1.  The UM2+ feeder and the left feeder on the UM3 are identical.

 

Oh wait - maybe not.  Because the instructions for DDG for UM3 have you change the steps/mm setting for both feeders - I can't see any way to change only one feeder steps/mm without also changing the other.

 

(filament is here) https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/layceramic-3.00mm/sk/M7RE5J6P thank you for the tips, this filament is quite brittle (CLAY BASED) and needs to be pre-heated before extrusion, and have the force from the extruder gear dispersed as much as possible to avoid fracture

Edited June 11 by Timothy_Egoroff

[gr5 1,024]

They keep spelling "hobbed bolt" as "hobbet bolt" in the instructions.  Anyway I'm not familiar with this filament.  It recommends hardened steel which I think UM uses.  Um does a gnurled surface (triangles) instead of the splined surface.  If you really want a spline you can by the DDG kit for UM3 which I sell in my store (if it's not in stock I can get it pretty fast):

https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um3-up.html

 

But I suspect the existing feeder will be fine.  You might want to print at about 1/4 normal speed or 1/2 normal speed so the feeder doesn't have to work so hard.

 

So you must have access to a kiln.  This layceramic stuff is neat.

 

[Timothy_Egoroff 0]

yes after trying to find the other types of extruder gears compatible with Ultimaker 3, i think i will just use the DDG kit for UM3 because there are no other options that won't void the warranty, also hobbed gears i realize may not have enough grip anyway.

the DDG kit for UM3 seems to be the best because the edges are not knife sharp so the filament should not fracture with this, i found the extruder in stock on 3Dsolex.com but i might buy it from you.

thanks for the feedback