UMO HBK fails after 6 years of use

[mariuszem 4]

Hi,

I used my UMO since 2012 (added HBK upgrade some time ago). It is a great printer. I prefer it from UM2 or UM3. It's the best 3d printer ever. Till now. My printer, stopped working properly, just like that. Temperature jumps from 200 to 230, while set to 210. I can't print with it. It happened only on one of my UMO's. Don't know why. I've seen 

but it did not help. I've uploaded slowPWM firmware from https://bultimaker.bulles.eu and reassembled head to separate FAN wires as far as it can be done.

 

Need help:)

[gr5 2,027]

You have a little circuit board on top of the print head.  For me the problem was at the green terminal connector where the two wires go into that from the thermocouple.  Check those first.  One of those was loose.

 

Also I had another temp failure on my UMO because I wasn't using the cable relieve part.

 

Do you have a volt meter?  Basically there are 3 wires going into this ad595 board on top of the UMO.  one is ground, one is 5v, and one is a signal going back to the printer.  That "signal" wire is 0V for 0C and 5V for 500C and everything in between so at room temp (20C) it should read 200mv.  Make sure the 5V signal is steady and jiggle the wires and if it is then try that signal going back next.  If that's steady then the problem is closer to the arduino somewhere.

 

[mariuszem 4]

Hi gr5!

I did check it. I reassembled whole head. Early this morning I switched my AD595 with another one (from another UMO) and it is working fine. I mean temperature is 210/210 about 99% of the time. I switches from 209 to 211 only. Prints are not 100% ok, but I'll handle that with some new nozzle/teflon.

Should I recheck soldering on TC1 board?

PS. Strange, my 2012 UMO TC1 board (green) is different from older one (blue) - mirrored.

[mariuszem 4]

Temperature used to be fine now, but I had to set line width to 0.35 like in UM2. UMO did print perimeter lines not sticking to each other. Why is that? Any idea @gr5? Others?