UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
Pretty much the only way to get this is if the temp sensor has a bad connection. As the connection slowly opens/disconnects, the resistance at the breakage doesn't go infinite but instead may add 100 ohms and this makes the reported temperature sky rocket in an instant.
There are 3 very common locations where the bad connection can be. 2 are trivial to fix. One is at the PCB under the printer. Everything is labelled. The heater sensor has thinner wires than the heater power. Actually this may be a crimped connector and may be the less likely place for a problem to occur. Or it may be a terminal block where bare wires are held in by push connector in which case it's a common fail point.
The second spot is where the wire connects to the print bed. This is easy to tighten back up. There is a screw connector (well there are 4 - two for heater, two for sensor) and this can come loose after a time. It's really easy to take apart the print bed (completely remove the 3 leveling screws and remove the cable clamp). Then remove and re-tighten the 2 sensor wires.
The third spot that commonly fails is the solder under this screw block where the block is soldered to the bed. If you have a friend who is good with the soldering iron this is a trivial fix.
Don't do any of this if your printer is less than a year old in which case you should contact your reseller first as I assume you don't want to violate your warranty. Tell them you have an intermittent sensor connection on the bed and it reports 105C when it's clearly much cooler.
In the meanwhile you can print on a cold bed with blue tape but make sure you wash the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol (to remove the waxy surface from the blue tape).
Link to post
Share on other sites
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
🚀 Help Shape the Future of Cura and Digital Factory – Join Our Power User Research Program!
We’re looking for active users of Cura and Digital Factory — across professional and educational use cases — to help us improve the next generation of our tools.
Our Power User Research Program kicks off with a quick 15-minute interview to learn about your setup and workflows. If selected, you’ll be invited into a small group of users who get early access to features and help us shape the future of 3D printing software.
🧪 What to Expect:
A short 15-minute kickoff interview to help us get to know you If selected, bi-monthly research sessions (15–30 minutes) where we’ll test features, review workflows, or gather feedback Occasional invites to try out early prototypes or vote on upcoming improvements
🎁 What You’ll Get:
Selected participants receive a free 1-year Studio or Classroom license Early access to new features and tools A direct voice in what we build next
👉 Interested? Please fill out this quick form
Your feedback helps us make Cura Cloud more powerful, more intuitive, and more aligned with how you actually print and manage your workflow.
Thanks for being part of the community,
The full stable release of Cura 5.10 has arrived, and it brings support for the new Ultimaker S8, as well as new materials and profiles for previously supported UltiMaker printers. Additionally, you can now control your models in Cura using a 3D SpaceMouse and more!
Recommended Posts
gr5 2,330
Pretty much the only way to get this is if the temp sensor has a bad connection. As the connection slowly opens/disconnects, the resistance at the breakage doesn't go infinite but instead may add 100 ohms and this makes the reported temperature sky rocket in an instant.
There are 3 very common locations where the bad connection can be. 2 are trivial to fix. One is at the PCB under the printer. Everything is labelled. The heater sensor has thinner wires than the heater power. Actually this may be a crimped connector and may be the less likely place for a problem to occur. Or it may be a terminal block where bare wires are held in by push connector in which case it's a common fail point.
The second spot is where the wire connects to the print bed. This is easy to tighten back up. There is a screw connector (well there are 4 - two for heater, two for sensor) and this can come loose after a time. It's really easy to take apart the print bed (completely remove the 3 leveling screws and remove the cable clamp). Then remove and re-tighten the 2 sensor wires.
The third spot that commonly fails is the solder under this screw block where the block is soldered to the bed. If you have a friend who is good with the soldering iron this is a trivial fix.
Don't do any of this if your printer is less than a year old in which case you should contact your reseller first as I assume you don't want to violate your warranty. Tell them you have an intermittent sensor connection on the bed and it reports 105C when it's clearly much cooler.
In the meanwhile you can print on a cold bed with blue tape but make sure you wash the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol (to remove the waxy surface from the blue tape).
Link to post
Share on other sites