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Pretty much the only way to get this is if the temp sensor has a bad connection. As the connection slowly opens/disconnects, the resistance at the breakage doesn't go infinite but instead may add 100 ohms and this makes the reported temperature sky rocket in an instant.
There are 3 very common locations where the bad connection can be. 2 are trivial to fix. One is at the PCB under the printer. Everything is labelled. The heater sensor has thinner wires than the heater power. Actually this may be a crimped connector and may be the less likely place for a problem to occur. Or it may be a terminal block where bare wires are held in by push connector in which case it's a common fail point.
The second spot is where the wire connects to the print bed. This is easy to tighten back up. There is a screw connector (well there are 4 - two for heater, two for sensor) and this can come loose after a time. It's really easy to take apart the print bed (completely remove the 3 leveling screws and remove the cable clamp). Then remove and re-tighten the 2 sensor wires.
The third spot that commonly fails is the solder under this screw block where the block is soldered to the bed. If you have a friend who is good with the soldering iron this is a trivial fix.
Don't do any of this if your printer is less than a year old in which case you should contact your reseller first as I assume you don't want to violate your warranty. Tell them you have an intermittent sensor connection on the bed and it reports 105C when it's clearly much cooler.
In the meanwhile you can print on a cold bed with blue tape but make sure you wash the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol (to remove the waxy surface from the blue tape).
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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gr5 2,172
Pretty much the only way to get this is if the temp sensor has a bad connection. As the connection slowly opens/disconnects, the resistance at the breakage doesn't go infinite but instead may add 100 ohms and this makes the reported temperature sky rocket in an instant.
There are 3 very common locations where the bad connection can be. 2 are trivial to fix. One is at the PCB under the printer. Everything is labelled. The heater sensor has thinner wires than the heater power. Actually this may be a crimped connector and may be the less likely place for a problem to occur. Or it may be a terminal block where bare wires are held in by push connector in which case it's a common fail point.
The second spot is where the wire connects to the print bed. This is easy to tighten back up. There is a screw connector (well there are 4 - two for heater, two for sensor) and this can come loose after a time. It's really easy to take apart the print bed (completely remove the 3 leveling screws and remove the cable clamp). Then remove and re-tighten the 2 sensor wires.
The third spot that commonly fails is the solder under this screw block where the block is soldered to the bed. If you have a friend who is good with the soldering iron this is a trivial fix.
Don't do any of this if your printer is less than a year old in which case you should contact your reseller first as I assume you don't want to violate your warranty. Tell them you have an intermittent sensor connection on the bed and it reports 105C when it's clearly much cooler.
In the meanwhile you can print on a cold bed with blue tape but make sure you wash the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol (to remove the waxy surface from the blue tape).
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