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Smithy

CPE vs Tough PLA

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Hi

I am diving through tech sheets and articles about materials, but cannot find any answer to my question.

 

What should be used or is better in handling/printing when the main difference i.e. chemical resistance is not an issue. So in other words, I am just looking for a material like ABS, but not ABS. It should be just more strength than normal PLA. Or is in that case ABS the material to use?

 

I know it is hard to suggest a material without the exact knowledge about the usage of the printed part, but I am looking more less for an allrounder without any extreme requirements.

 

And is there any material which should be used for outdoor usage - a garden gnome for example? Or is PLA enough for such cases?

 

Thanks a lot

Christian.

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I am loving my white TPLA. How it compares to ABS, I am not sure. But much easier to print than both ABS or CPE. But, it has the same softening temp. So outside in hot days could make it soft.

 

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I’m having the same quest, trying to find a filament that can stand weather and time. My best bet so far is colorFabb’s HT. It will be fine up to a 100 degrees or so. I guess the quality of the surface of the print isn’t as good as PLA but so far it’s good enough for me. I have sanded a few models and the model didn’t get soft or “sticky” while sanding to quick like PLA, I liked it a lot. 

 

But be ware that you probably need to print it at an higher temp than the original FW let’s you use and that the PTFE coupler doesn’t like higher temps. Don’t know if you count this as extreme but I think it’s the price you have to pay. 

 

The solution for me was tinkergnome FW and a PTFE coupler from 3D Solex that won’t mind beeing used at temperatures up to 295 degrees.

 

I’ve had a few models made from PLA outside in the sun for a couple of months this summer, and we have had more than 30 degrees for many of those days, I haven’t measured the temp in the sun but none of my models got soft.

It takes a little more than 50 degrees to start making PLA soft. 

I guess the real killer is UV radiation. There are some sprays that states it blocks UV, haven’t tried though. 

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colorFabb’s HT is similar to CPE+ I think - or not? And I read that this not so easy to print, specially for beginners, but I haven't tried it yet. 

 

I am currently happy with my UM3, bought it just last week, so I don't plan to tune or replace some parts now. (maybe later 🙂 ) Therefore I should go with material compatible with the UM3 to of the box. 

 

So when temperature is not an issue than TPLA and if higher temperatures are needed then CPE or more higher CPE+, right?

 

I want to construct and print a holder for my network equipment at home (Unifi) and the router and switch gets really hot (its normal), so I think I should not print it with PLA or TPLA. Then CPE should material of my choice or something else?

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48 minutes ago, Smithy said:

ups, sorry 🙂

Puhleeze...you should see how much stuff I overlook..... 😄

 

 

It is fairly bullet proof and works well with PVA. I would make a couple of small objects to see if you need to fine tune a thing or two. But I have always enjoyed printing with Nylon. Just keep it dry.

 

Edited by kmanstudios

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Thanks, then I will give it a try. 

Generally I think I should buy a spule from every material (UM only) too get a feeling and to see how it behaves in different conditions. 

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18 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

Just keep it dry

This is the part that has made me a bit vary, is it still true that if you leave a role up in a day that you then need to dry it in an oven?

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4 minutes ago, Smithy said:

Thanks, then I will give it a try. 

Generally I think I should buy a spule from every material (UM only) too get a feeling and to see how it behaves in different conditions. 

That is a good idea. What I find easy may not be so for others. It is odd. This is not a completely bullet proof operation. For instance, I have great success with PVA and it bedevils others.

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Just now, TMicke said:

This is the part that has made me a bit vary, is it still true that if you leave a role up in a day that you then need to dry it in an oven?

That is all dependent on your environment within your worker space and local. That is why one must try options. What works for dry climes does not always work in humid ones or worse, extremely humid ones. It all depends on how you keep your worker space.

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Just now, kmanstudios said:

That is all dependent on your environment within your worker space and local. That is why one must try options. What works for dry climes does not always work in humid ones or worse, extremely humid ones. It all depends on how you keep your worker space.

But as a guideline, if you have a humidity of, say 40%, how long until you need to dry it?

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UM tech sheets say, you should store it <50% humidity, so I think 40% should not be a problem. But the humidity currently here in Austria about 75% is too much. So I moved my tests with PVA to a dryer period 🙂 

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1 hour ago, Smithy said:

UM tech sheets say, you should store it <50% humidity, so I think 40% should not be a problem. But the humidity currently here in Austria about 75% is too much. So I moved my tests with PVA to a dryer period 🙂 

He hom seeks shall find, maybe something for me to consider 🙂 

 

I thought everybody in Australia had air conditioner 😉 

It's to high humidity here in Sweden this time of the year as well.

 

Good luck with your printing! And congratulations to your UM3, wish I had one too.

Edited by TMicke
Bad spelling

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30 minutes ago, TMicke said:

I thought everybody in Australia had air conditioner 😉

 

One small but important note:

I am in Austria (Vienna, Mozart, Skiing) not Australia! 🙂

There are no Kangaroos in Austria.....

 

But due the extreme summer temperatures we currently have in Europe, the humidity is nearly tropical.

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39 minutes ago, Smithy said:

There are no Kangaroos in Austria.....

HAHAHAHAHAHA 😂😂😂

Sorry about that.

 

I guess we suffer the same fate then, where I live we have had maybe 10mm rain since mid May and the warmest year in 260 years (or so the papers say).

Edited by TMicke

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I thought that Europe was very dry this year hence all the wildfires. And, is not all of Europe going through record temps?

 

But, yeah, below 50% humidity should be ok. But if it starts to crackle and pop and steam, then dry it out. It can still absorb moisture over time. This goes for all hygroscopic materials.

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Generally it is dry, yes, but sometimes it rains a little bit or it is cloudy and then it is really humid and terrible. But thats summer, if it is cold and rainy we also complain 🙂

 

13 minutes ago, TMicke said:
51 minutes ago, Smithy said:

There are no Kangaroos in Austria.....

HAHAHAHAHAHA 😂😂😂

Sorry about that.

 

No problem at all, it happens very often 🙂 

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