Unicron V2

[cloakfiend 995]

Hi again, so here is my Unicron WIP sculpt that has more of a moustache as the other one i made didn't and it bothered me after seeing it in old comics and cartoons. Easily solved in an hour or so, followed by 18 more, lol.

 

I also recently purchased some burring tools which i must say work great in removing layer lines on bottom surfaces, and between thin and hard to get to areas. Pics below. the titanium ones are awesome (the bigger ones) the small ones are also great, but just coated metal as opposed to actual shaped metal. You just need to be careful with the small ones as they will just melt the plastic real fast if you keep going without a break. big surfaces are easy and quick yo clean up. Doing that by hand would be a royal pain.

 

Ill just fill the rest of the gaps in with superglue and sand it down to get a glass finish. One of his moustaches broke off, or I broke it off, doesn't matter, but superglue and activator are my new best friends! I highly recommend it, but its real nasty stuff so be very careful dont get the spray, get the pen, that way you can draw it on wherever you want and add it on later as well. I find superglue much easier to control than filler, and it sands better too without any tiny holes that filler often has, and it also doesn't react to liquids or paint that filler has issues with.

 

Not sure why support was not generated for the left horn, as it suffered s a result and is a bit flat on the bottom. So just having the support there does make a difference even if it does not quite touch! good to know.

Edited August 29, 2018 by cloakfiend

[Nicolinux 288]

I admire your patience with post processing prints...

Have you thought acetone smoothing? ?

 

[cloakfiend 995]

Lol, thats the next stage, but i put superglue on already by mistake!

[Smithy 1,144]

Which tool are you using for post processing, Dremel, Proxxon? I think it must be something with slow speed. 

I tried my old Dremel, it's working but it is too fast on the slowest setting and therefore melting the plastic nearly immediately.

[cloakfiend 995]

Yeah i use a dremel 4000  not even on the lowest setting but don't press down, let it rumble on the top and you'll be ok, the smaller the tip the quicker it melts. Thats why if you use a big 'burr'?, it wont melt. The needle thin small ones melted immediately. dont sit in the same spot as well.

 

I went a bit heavy on the super glue as filler and poor modelling meant that this model is bumpy because I didn't model it with hard edges and rushed it because I couldn't be bothered to hard edge it so the faces aren't actually flat. Ill fix it up a bit but seeing as its a destroyed Unicron ill leave the damage to the face.

 

My copper solution is contaminated and cant plate again till i replenish it and find some new reliable source to buy it from. ebay is sketchy and the folks who sold it to me admitted they were miss-sold the copper from the factory, whether thats true or not is irrelevant to me its ruined my setup completely. I said I would give negative reviews to them. we'll see, it was only £18 but i've already bought new copper for £12. Best to get it direct from factories as offcuts rather than resellers not knowing what they are selling.

 

Some pics before final plate. dont know why they come up as portrait?

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 30, 2018 by cloakfiend

[Smithy 1,144]

6 hours ago, cloakfiend said:

Yeah i use a dremel 4000  not even on the lowest setting but don't press down, let it rumble on the top and you'll be ok, the smaller the tip the quicker it melts. Thats why if you use a big 'burr'?, it wont melt. The needle thin small ones melted immediately. dont sit in the same spot as well.

 

Good tip, thanks, I always tried the smaller ones, but sound logical. 

Best would be to sand it by hand or use a file, but I am too lazy to do that, so I try to use tools as often as possible.

 

But I am always very impressed what is possible with a solid post processing - great!

[cloakfiend 995]

I now always use tools for all the major stuff, its what tools are for after all. It saves so much time. Then a bit of fixing up and straight to the acetone. After that another once over with light sanding to fix problem areas and its done. Thd dremel can only really be used on larger areas but the round burrs seemed fine to me and didnt melt, only the thin one. But ive had a tiny drill melt pla after it heated up very quickly. Forget about using anything with a needle tip on it, pla it will instantly melt, from my experience anyway.

 

Needle files are where its at in my opinion, so damn good. You just need to understand how to make the most out of them. Great for keeping surfaces flat and not uneven as hand sanding might do.

Edited August 31, 2018 by cloakfiend

[Smithy 1,144]

I tried today a bigger tool on my Dremel and it worked great. Ok, was Colorfabb XT and not PLA, but I think when carefully using, it will also work with PLA. I have just to take care, not using too much pressure.

 

I have a very old Dremel and I have seen that the min. speed is 10.000 rpm, so thats really high. Maybe a slower tool like the Proxxon 12V models will be better. They have a min. speed of 5000 rpm and there is one Proxxon tool which goes slow to 3000 rpm. I think the model was FBS-12 or something like that, not sure.

 

I also have needle files, but that's really onerous to get some material off, so I prefer the Dremel when ever it is possible - I am a lazy guy ? 

[cloakfiend 995]

Needle files are last or almost last when the power tools have done their bit. Its not being lazy, its valuing your time! You preffer relaxing to sanding......who doesnt? only liars!

[cloakfiend 995]

Pre Patina photos... fell asleep while plating this! woke up at 5am on my sofa!

 

 

 

 

Edited September 15, 2018 by cloakfiend

[cloakfiend 995]

And polished...