Didn't print with Bendlay, something came up, I'll try end of this week.......
Regards,
Harold
Didn't print with Bendlay, something came up, I'll try end of this week.......
Regards,
Harold
Just tried with bendlay - dimmo I did not realise that it was an ABS rather than PLA so just by chance I thought I would do a 20mm radius cylinder on BLUE TAPE which printed ok - bottom was dished, I printed at 250 and got failry good layer adhesion - I had done a 2mm thick rim with no infill - and ended up with 2 0.8mm layers separated by an air gap (I know that is what I 'asked' it to do.
As I manipulated it it dawned on me that I had printed parallel thin walls - so I bent it until it broke, which took some work. At a single 0.8mm thick it is flexible - but not what I was expecting which was more rubbery.
Turns out my first print with it was luck as a smaller part later just got no adhesion to my non printed blue tape - 4 times, which was when I did the clever thing and look it up ABS!
At the moment I don't intend to put in a heated platform so I will store the roll until I have!
Looks like it could be useful as a non-breakable thin clear product, but it does warp badly without a heated bed and does not like blue tape
James
Hi guys,
I drop in my first experiences with Bendlay..
Awesome stuff i have to say. it works good with a bowden system.
Not too bendy not too hard.. and very smooth surface (ultimaker soft pla is much softer and kinda bit stickier to touch in comparison)
I used the proposed 240°C this worked fine.. (im still experimenting with Fan off or on and temp changes)
i forgot about the material density settings.. so i used PLA 1240 kg/m3 .. worked fine.
( i exeriment with this later)
I activated Raft... (also made the interface raft layers stronger.. from 0.2 to 0.4)
The best stick-trick i found was Kapton tape with a spray of acryl based fixative. (most people use hairspray instead)
Even though i recommend a HBP.. for some prints this worked even with a cold buildplate.
Heres what i used:
Lascaux Fixative
http://lascaux.ch/pdf/de/produkte/malhilfen/firnisse/52313.01_firnisse_.pdf
Pay attention not to spray the buildplate when it sits in the Printer.
The spraymist will go everywhere... and we dont want to know what it does to moving parts.
I've been printing a few things with Benlay recently. I printed a spindle clamp for my CNC router and some coil-form bobbins for home wound transformers. I've been printing at 250 degrees and heated bed temp of 75 degrees with a success rate was about 50%. For some reason shortly into the print it will start under-extruding and producing fluff... Yet when I stop the print and manually turn the extruder it extrudes just fine... Restarting it works great usually. In all cases the print either starts under extruding at about layer 10-15, or if it makes it past that point then it seems to go fine for the whole print.
With the heated bed I do not get any warping of the bottom of the print, but a little ways up (maybe 1.5cm off the bed) the warping forces pulled my bobbin inwards for a bit. I think a heated chamber would really benefit this stuff. It may also work if I lower the extrusion temp a little bit. All of my successful prints were done without the fan, so having a fan might help but the ones that I tried the fan on all failed with the underextrusion problem above. I turned the fan off because I thought that might be related but I don't know if it is or not... My success rate with fan was 0% and without was 50%... But I did not do extensive tests.
Regards,
Troy.
tried bendlay without heated bed, confirm that it doesn't work well... wait until HB is available... or switch to TGLASE, not bendable but cristal clear. strong and print on cold kapton tape
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hreedijk 4
Hello Troy,
I'm going to test Bendlay this weekend, need it for a few prints.
Let you know the results and settings used.
Regards,
Harold
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