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the minimum thickness of a wall depends on your nozzle diameter (usually 0.4), so you can print walls with a minimum thickness of 0.4mm. (There are some options and tricks to print even thinner walls, but that's another story).
Or do you mean something else with your first question?
Regarding lampholder, no haven't done it personally, but why not? Depending on your lamp temperature you have to use the correct material, maybe something more heat resistant than normal PLA.
There are a lot of possibilities to import files into Fusion, but I think you mean not Fusion but Cura? In Cura you usually import STL files and these files can be scaled before printing.
You can always make a model solid if you select 100% infill, or if you make the walls thicker than the model itself. Except that solid is not perfectly solid: there will always be tiny gaps inbetween the extruded saugages. Printing slow minimises them, but does not eliminate them.
To make a wall print reliably, I always make all walls minimum 0.5mm wide in the CAD-design, for my 0.4mm fixed size nozzles (old UM2). When the file is exported to STL, smooth corners are cut into straight segments. So, in some spots a 0.40mm wall might become 0.41mm, and in others it might be 0.39mm, which in older slicer versions lead to that part not being printed because it was too thin (less than 0.4mm). So now I just stay on the safe side, and 0.5mm also works well on a design grid. (I don't know how newer slicer versions handle this, I haven't tried.)
Yes, I did make a lamp shade, but printed it in PET for better temperature resistance, and for translucency. There is a LED lamp inside now. Do not use PLA, even not for LED-lamps, CFL- or TL-lamps: they still go higher than 50°C. And even with PET (or any other higher temp material), allow air flow and some distance. All lamps are designed with some free airflow around them in mind. And even then, some of my LED spots still get to ca. 100°C (so I wonder how long they will live, definitely not the advertised 25000...50000 hours).
Never use 3D-printed parts for incandescent lamps: at best the plastic leaks away, at worst it could catch fire and burn down your whole house. These need heat resistant bakelite, porcelain, or similar.
In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
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Smithy 1,135
HI
the minimum thickness of a wall depends on your nozzle diameter (usually 0.4), so you can print walls with a minimum thickness of 0.4mm. (There are some options and tricks to print even thinner walls, but that's another story).
Or do you mean something else with your first question?
Regarding lampholder, no haven't done it personally, but why not? Depending on your lamp temperature you have to use the correct material, maybe something more heat resistant than normal PLA.
There are a lot of possibilities to import files into Fusion, but I think you mean not Fusion but Cura? In Cura you usually import STL files and these files can be scaled before printing.
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geert_2 556
You can always make a model solid if you select 100% infill, or if you make the walls thicker than the model itself. Except that solid is not perfectly solid: there will always be tiny gaps inbetween the extruded saugages. Printing slow minimises them, but does not eliminate them.
To make a wall print reliably, I always make all walls minimum 0.5mm wide in the CAD-design, for my 0.4mm fixed size nozzles (old UM2). When the file is exported to STL, smooth corners are cut into straight segments. So, in some spots a 0.40mm wall might become 0.41mm, and in others it might be 0.39mm, which in older slicer versions lead to that part not being printed because it was too thin (less than 0.4mm). So now I just stay on the safe side, and 0.5mm also works well on a design grid. (I don't know how newer slicer versions handle this, I haven't tried.)
Yes, I did make a lamp shade, but printed it in PET for better temperature resistance, and for translucency. There is a LED lamp inside now. Do not use PLA, even not for LED-lamps, CFL- or TL-lamps: they still go higher than 50°C. And even with PET (or any other higher temp material), allow air flow and some distance. All lamps are designed with some free airflow around them in mind. And even then, some of my LED spots still get to ca. 100°C (so I wonder how long they will live, definitely not the advertised 25000...50000 hours).
Never use 3D-printed parts for incandescent lamps: at best the plastic leaks away, at worst it could catch fire and burn down your whole house. These need heat resistant bakelite, porcelain, or similar.
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marinda 0
Thank you all so much! This was really helpfull information! 🙂
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