Jump to content
Bryan55m

Fixture grade filament?

Recommended Posts

Posted · Fixture grade filament?

I am looking for some feed back for some filament suggestions for hyro-dipping fixtures. 

I would like to print some masking parts for use in our hydrographics shop. I see polypropylene is available. Has anyone used polypropylene verses a PLA in this style applications? I need something that will be chemical resistant, and withstand a little more heat than the PLA. We had some of the PLA parts warp a bit in front of the heat lamps (we just aren’t baking them now) and we use some solvents in our dip tank that I’m afraid will wear out the PLA over time. 

 

Thanks Bryan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Fixture grade filament?

Some PLA blends tends to shrink with solvent use, as it likes to absorb it. Well acetone anyway. However after initial exposures it tends to suffer less. It depends on how long you are going to submerge it for. Pure PLA is pretty resistant to most things though. Id say take some samples and dip half of in whatever they will be touching and see the effects for yourself. Each brand varies in its make up so you will have to experiment. Rigidinks PLA is quite sturdy and doesn't react to acetone as well as Ultimakers. Their tough PLA does however react to Acetone so that may not be an option? I use a lot of solvents with PLA to smooth its surface after taking it off the build plate.

 

PLA in my chemical baths is surprisingly resilient..... but I guess it all depends on the chemicals.

Edited by cloakfiend
spelling duh..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Fixture grade filament?

I have no experience with it, but PP is said to be difficult to print (warping + hard to stick to the bed).

 

Have you considered PET? It is somewhat chemically resistant too, can handle higher temperatures (~80°C) and it still prints rather easily.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Fixture grade filament?

I have printed some with PP and can confirm the issues with PP.  Normally, PP does not adhere to the glass well, even with glue.  When it does, it may warp along the bed contact area.  One trick we have tried is to mask the bed off with packing tape, the clear kind.  We found that some clear packing tape is made from PP and this allows for good adhesion.  Its not a perfect solution, but it may help.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!