Post assembly 3d printing guide for new users

[aaron 2]

Okay, before I start, I would like to state my intentions. I want to start a reasonably long thread intended to help new users with getting good print results directly after assembly. If you think this thread should be moved to a different category please let me know.

Assembly: You are given a bag of silver grub screws. Replace the black ones in your pulleys with those.

Pre-print Calibration:

 

• Before you even try to print anything, make absolutely sure your sliding blocks are aligned. (there are plenty of threads to learn to do this)
  
• Make sure belts are also reasonably tight.
  
• Tighten heated block and brass nozzle so they cannot be moved with a light push. This will help prevent molten PLA from leaking through the threads.
  
• When it comes to the online directions' version of bed leveling, ignore it and go directly to Cura's bed leveling wizard. This is much faster and easier.
  

 

Post-print Calibration:

The Ultimaker is a fantastic machine. However, you can make it much easier to use by fixing a few of its very minor downfalls. The first fix I recommend to print is this part: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:62819

This is a z axis end switch precision calibration device that mounts to the back of your machine and makes getting your z axis exactly .1mm away from the nozzle much easier.

Next I recommend printing this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:69327

This is an improved fan duct that will replace the sub-par one which was included. This will immensely reduce warping and increase overall print quality.

Last, I recommend printing this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157

This is a retraction clip that will help give you more accurate retraction and prevent play in the bowden tube mount on the extruder.

Other tidbits:

 

• Use wider masking tape (2" or greater). This will make for less tape lines, greater adhesion, and faster taping.
  
• Wipe your taped print bed with isopropyl rubbing alcohol. This will also help with adhesion.
  
• Store all PLA filament you are not using in a sealed container with those silica packets to suck out the moisture.
  
• You may want to print a new spool holder if you buy anything but Ultimaker filament. Other companies that I have seen all use spools with smaller holes that will not fit with the current spool holder.
  

 

Well, I can't think of anything else off of the top of my head so all I can say in addition to what I already have is just to have fun.

Hope my little guide helps.

Any other bits of advice?

 

[LePaul 331]

I don't think you mean "thicker" tape but wider...right? Since narrower tape makes for a lot more lines/strips needed to cover the plate

Can you elaborate on this?

Assembly: You are given a bag of silver grub screws. Replace the black ones in your pulleys with those.

Good timing....I'm painting the wood pieces tomorrow, assembly the next day!

 

[lee 2]

Has anyone tried "FROG TAPE" instead of standard masking tape yet?

 

[warrenmiller 0]

I'm using frogtape at the moment and it seems to be working ok on the 1st print.