I think Owen nailed the cause. As he said, temps are critical with ABS--both ambient air temp and bed temp. Are the parts in the photo oriented in the build direction? I'd try to print the part in a heated build chamber (I use a bubble wrap tent.). I'd use a high bed temp (about 125) for the first two to four layers to bring the tent up to temperature and then reduce the bed temp to 110. I'd try a light fan for the first 10mm (or as high as the plastic is shrinking inward) and then turn it off until the the layer times become very short at the top protrusion.
A narrower waist from shrinkage, as illustrated in you photo, early in the print is common. Some fan usually helps. If you over-cool with a fan, darker ABS colors will often exhibit thin lighter color lines or striations, due to poor layer bonds and partial delamination.
You could also try thinner layers (longer print time). In general, thinner layers seem to reduce this effect but there are so many process combinations, I don't think you can count on any rules.
I've not found anything better for ABS adhesion than either juiced (ABS/acetone wipe) Kapton or PET tape. Hairspray on glass can work and be very convenient, but juiced tape is the best. It's so good I've broken a grand total of three glass build plates trying to remove large and blocky ABS parts (and I'm careful and know all the tricks for removal). You could also add a brim to the part, if adhesion to the bed becomes a problem while tweaking your temps.
Recommended Posts
owen 19
It's got to do with Heat Bed Temperature and when your fan comes on I think.
It's a tricky balance as having the fan come on too soon or too hard causes lifting off the bed.
My settings are 125C Bed, 245C Nozzle, Dual Fans on from the start at 30%. Heated build chamber (though I don't know if I need this or not as I had it before I started printing ABS but I think it helps). I've avoided what you are getting now and usually getting it to stick but still not every print sticks successfully.
Link to post
Share on other sites