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owen

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About owen

  • Birthday 06/25/1960

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  • Field of Work
    Other
  • Country
    AU

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  1. owen

    Which one to buy

    Hi If you make an enclosure for the top of your printer and a door for the front then ABS prints much better. It stops the layers from splitting.
  2. owen

    Ultimaker Cura | a new interface

    Thanks to the Dev's for continually improving Cura and exploring with the new interface. Personally I preferred the full list on the right as I don't remember all the different settings so I need to look through the list with as little scrolling as possible. An idea I had would be to have a category list on the left which would be a dropdown that you can pin open. The selection of the category would show it's settings in the right list. The right list would open up as long as necessary to fit all of that categories settings in. The Category list would also have "All" as an option.
  3. owen

    Why do my prints keep messing up?

    Hi Looks like you're not starting close enough to the bed. The first layer and brim should be squished onto the bed so that the lines of print are touching each other with no gap in between. Best if you can do the bed leveling routine and give it another go.
  4. Try one of these thermal switches. https://www.ebay.com/itm/9-C-99-C-DC-12V-Intelligent-Digital-Led-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-/321723841989 You just need to hook up 12V and a good fan. I've been using one with a 4cm fan for a while and it works great but on a hot day it's hard to keep the temperature down for the lower temp filaments so now I have hooked up an 8cm fan. I set it to 45C for ABS and 30C for Ngen. I take my my enclosure off for PLA but if I had to use it I'd set it for 10C to 20C to that the fan is on all the time.
  5. Hi Christian I think this occurs when the print head has to slow down for the corner and still has the plastic oozing out at the same rate which makes more plastic come out over a given distance. Maybe some plastic also gets tossed outwards when the nozzle suddenly changes direction. Either way the cure is to either print slower or if you are designing the models yourself you can make rounder corners where possible. Otherwise your prints look very good. Owen
  6. owen

    What The DfAM?

    Maybe make a part like this printed on the side will give give more strength by the direction of the print lines and make a foot plate to go on top which you would print on the front facing side to give good strength
  7. Probably a transistor etc. which drives the heated bed is permanently turned on instead of relying on the signal from UM2 to turn it on. Alternatively the transistor is receiving a false signal to it's input which is turning it on. You need to get a technician to have a look and replace the component or you could replace the whole printed circuit board yourself, assuming the transistor is on there. You could try uploading the firmware first in case it's an error in the code. This is a less likely fix but costs nothing to try. Also look at the electronics to see if any wire has come loose or if there is something bridging contacts. Good luck Owen
  8. So I duplicated your settings in Simplify3D and the print lines still seem extremely noticeable. Im not sure if this is just as good as it gets or if I just need to keep tweaking. I just heard so much about the Ultimaker printers that I expected them to be equal or better than the zortrax. I decided to print a little batman bust and when looking straight at it, it looks lovely, all the details are there.. but when you slightly shift your angle you see how pronounced every print line is. Now Im not expecting perfection, but I expect the depth from one print layer to the next to be a little more subtle.. I guess my zortrax has just spoiled me on how well it prints and how seemingly invisible the print lines are. I willing to try whatever and keep printing these test pieces if anyone has any additional suggestions. I don't think that's too bad a print for ABS as it doesn't print as well as NextGen or others. Where you see the very noticeable lines at the top of the shoulders is purely a function of layer height. Lowering layer height will greatly diminish these. You can go down to about 0.04mm layer height or less. Less quite often doesn't make much difference though it might on this section. In S3D you can also print different sections at different layer heights so that you can print fine where you need to without slowing the whole print down. Use the variable settings wizard under the tools menu and change the layer height for each process. Maybe find a smaller model to experiment with.
  9. I've been using S3D with enclosure and door maintaining 45 degrees C Nozzle 250 Bed 100 Fan off till 10 layers (when doing 0.15mm layers) then at 20% Same models were splitting before I used the enclosure Using just enough fan for better overhangs and tops At 50mm/sec. at 0.15mm layers but also printing finer layers and slower speeds with good results I'm sure CURA would print good with the same settings
  10. Unplug anything new that you've plugged in and see if it starts.
  11. owen

    Pause at height to change nozzle size

    Yep possible by that method with Simplify3D and should be in Cura. I printed some Dog Tags. Bottom half 1.7mm high with White XT 0.6mm nozzle. Top half 0.3mm high starting at 1.7mm height of course with Black XT 0.25mm nozzle. The top part had a void for the text so the white showed through. I did it by hanging around when the bottom half finished. Turning the heatbed back on (though you could get the gcode to leave the heatbed on). Swapping the nozzle and purgeing the new filament and then starting the new print. All done in 0.1mm layers. Need to ensure your nozzles are the same height and the top half has Brim turned off. Owen
  12. My pleasure and no offense taken.
  13. Hi Just one drop of oil on the 8mm shafts but not very often Owen
  14. owen

    Post your latest print!

    That vapour polishing doesn't always look that great due to lost detail but it looks perfect on this print.
  15. owen

    Tips and Tricks: XT with S3D

    Sorry to hear about your terrible day fergazz :( I think you might be able to import these settings but if you can't you could just read them and set your settings like that. UM2+ is capable of printing much more volume then the UM2 but also mine tends to over extrude when I print XT which is why I set the extrusion multiplyer to less than 1 but you should leave it at 1. With those settings I printed out White XT and Black XT which both printed well. Good luck.
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