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About owen

  • Birthday 06/25/1960

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  1. Thanks for the update Oliveros. That ABS has a glass transition temperature of 105C compared to PETG (the one I just googled ) of 75C, so it should be much better. You'll have to post a pic when you make your final design.
  2. I haven't printed with PETG but I think it's similar to NEXT GEN. I use UHU glue and a Brim and make spharp corners on the base base round where possible.
  3. Great work Oliveros. Thanks for the updates.
  4. Hey Oliveros You could try something like this. Make the walls 2 line widths thick. Shaft_Clip.obj
  5. You may need to print it in a different orientation so the weakness of layer adhesion isn't causing the problem. Check out This Thread. Also you might want to show us the model.
  6. I've done a lot of stuff in 3D, photos etc. and these are done beautifully. Very clear and easy on the eye. Sure does give a better view of the model. Well done.
  7. Hi You just need to check the highest temperature your printer is able to print at and the required temperature for that filament. Which filament is it exactly?
  8. Hi If you make an enclosure for the top of your printer and a door for the front then ABS prints much better. It stops the layers from splitting.
  9. Thanks to the Dev's for continually improving Cura and exploring with the new interface. Personally I preferred the full list on the right as I don't remember all the different settings so I need to look through the list with as little scrolling as possible. An idea I had would be to have a category list on the left which would be a dropdown that you can pin open. The selection of the category would show it's settings in the right list. The right list would open up as long as necessary to fit all of that categories settings in. The Category list would also have "All" as an option.
  10. Hi Looks like you're not starting close enough to the bed. The first layer and brim should be squished onto the bed so that the lines of print are touching each other with no gap in between. Best if you can do the bed leveling routine and give it another go.
  11. Try one of these thermal switches. https://www.ebay.com/itm/9-C-99-C-DC-12V-Intelligent-Digital-Led-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-/321723841989 You just need to hook up 12V and a good fan. I've been using one with a 4cm fan for a while and it works great but on a hot day it's hard to keep the temperature down for the lower temp filaments so now I have hooked up an 8cm fan. I set it to 45C for ABS and 30C for Ngen. I take my my enclosure off for PLA but if I had to use it I'd set it for 10C to 20C to that the fan is on all the time.
  12. Hi Christian I think this occurs when the print head has to slow down for the corner and still has the plastic oozing out at the same rate which makes more plastic come out over a given distance. Maybe some plastic also gets tossed outwards when the nozzle suddenly changes direction. Either way the cure is to either print slower or if you are designing the models yourself you can make rounder corners where possible. Otherwise your prints look very good. Owen
  13. Maybe make a part like this printed on the side will give give more strength by the direction of the print lines and make a foot plate to go on top which you would print on the front facing side to give good strength
  14. Probably a transistor etc. which drives the heated bed is permanently turned on instead of relying on the signal from UM2 to turn it on. Alternatively the transistor is receiving a false signal to it's input which is turning it on. You need to get a technician to have a look and replace the component or you could replace the whole printed circuit board yourself, assuming the transistor is on there. You could try uploading the firmware first in case it's an error in the code. This is a less likely fix but costs nothing to try. Also look at the electronics to see if any wire has come loose or if there is something bridging contacts. Good luck Owen
  15. So I duplicated your settings in Simplify3D and the print lines still seem extremely noticeable. Im not sure if this is just as good as it gets or if I just need to keep tweaking. I just heard so much about the Ultimaker printers that I expected them to be equal or better than the zortrax. I decided to print a little batman bust and when looking straight at it, it looks lovely, all the details are there.. but when you slightly shift your angle you see how pronounced every print line is. Now Im not expecting perfection, but I expect the depth from one print layer to the next to be a little more subtle.. I guess my zortrax has just spoiled me on how well it prints and how seemingly invisible the print lines are. I willing to try whatever and keep printing these test pieces if anyone has any additional suggestions. I don't think that's too bad a print for ABS as it doesn't print as well as NextGen or others. Where you see the very noticeable lines at the top of the shoulders is purely a function of layer height. Lowering layer height will greatly diminish these. You can go down to about 0.04mm layer height or less. Less quite often doesn't make much difference though it might on this section. In S3D you can also print different sections at different layer heights so that you can print fine where you need to without slowing the whole print down. Use the variable settings wizard under the tools menu and change the layer height for each process. Maybe find a smaller model to experiment with.
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