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Printing issues Nexeo Novamid ID 1070 Nylon


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Posted · Printing issues Nexeo Novamid ID 1070 Nylon

Hello everyone,


I'm having some problems with printing Nexeo/DSM Novamid ID 1070 on an Ultimaker S5. 

I'm experiencing some warping and bed adhesion issues. My parts warp in the corners and I also see that they partially come loose from the build plate.. 

I also enlarged the brim a little bit, I might need to make the brim even bigger.

I'm using 3DLac as an adhesive promotor.


I'm using printer settings provided by the supplier (I'll post them below). 


I have a document from Nexeo where they give some advice when you are experiencing problems. Unfortunately this a little bit contradictory..


This is what they say:

Warping: Advice is to lower the build plate temperature.. etc. 


First layer not sticking/parts coming loose: (amongst other tips) Advice is to raise bed temperature.. 


This are some of the print settings I use:

Print temperature: 255 °C

Bed temperature: 60 °C

Layer height: 0,2 mm


Should I raise or lower my bed temperature? And are there other tips to make sure my parts come out fine?


Thanks in advance!

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    Posted · Printing issues Nexeo Novamid ID 1070 Nylon

    I've printed Novamid 1030 but not 1070.  But I've printed probably 7 different types of nylon filament and they are mostly the same.  However 1070 is much stiffer than most filaments so it will be much more difficult where "warping on corners" is concerned.


    First of all 60C is crazy.  Stupid.  Bad.  100C will be much better.  The recommended temp I found on the internet for Novamid 1070 is 100C to 120C.  Nylon is very different from PLA in a few ways - first of all it gets softer very gradually as it gets warmer so at 80C it will be more flexible than at 60C and at 120C it will be getting very flexible but it will always bend back.  In comparison, PLA gets like clay as it gets warmer - if you deflect it when it is above 52C it will stick with it's new position.  LIke if you poke clay.  But Nylon when it's at these temps will bounce back.  Like rubber.


    Anyway make sure you set the bed to 100C.  I recommend cutting a 10cm length, bend it a few times in your hand and remember what it feels like, then place it on the bed at 100C for 20 seconds, then pick it up and bend it again.  Sometimes touching your filaments at temps of 60C, 80C and 100C (and 110C for ABS) can be enlightening.  Try bending it enough so it will permanently in a new shape.  I don't think that will happen at temps below 110C for Nylon.


    It's important to use lots of brim in cura.


    When I print Nylon I coat the glass with a very thin layer of PVA.  You should use some kind of surface treatment like 3DLAC or hairspray or woodglue mixed with water or gluestick spread on the glass with a wet tissue (to remove 90% of it and to spread it extra thin).  Don't just use gluestick by itself without spreading it super thin. However, one time when I printed UM Nylon with that thin layer of gluestick it stuck too well and removed a sliver of glass from my S5 print bed.  UM recommends a thick layer of gluestick to protect the glass.  So maybe start with that and if it's still warping then do a thin layer of gluestick.  I have a video that shows how I do PVA - 3 different methods.  If you use my methods parts will stick so well you will be chipping the glass occasionally.  It's worth it. My glass budget is tiny compared to my filament budget.





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    Posted · Printing issues Nexeo Novamid ID 1070 Nylon

    One more thing.  Nylon absorbs water from the air like crazy.  If you have left your filament out in the air for a day or two you need to dry it.  Set the print bed to 90C and put the whole spool of filament on the bed and cover it with a towel (or put the filament in a closed cardboard box - towel is better).  Or cover with a sheet.  Leave overnight like this.  If you are only printing 1 meter of nylon then you can cut 2 meters (one for the bowden) and leave that on the bowden at 100C for 20 minutes.


    I keep my nylon stored with a large (fist sized) box of rechargable dessicant (very cheap on ebay) that changes color when the dessicant needs to be recharged in the microwave.


    If you don't keep the nylon dry it doesn't stick as well to the glass and it foams as the water inside boils.  If it's very wet you can hear the sizzling and popping as the nylon comes out and you can see steam.  And the nylon isn't clear - it's like snow (matte).  Instead of like ice (clear, glossy).


    But if it's only a little wet you can't see a problem but it doesn't print as well.


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    Posted · Printing issues Nexeo Novamid ID 1070 Nylon

    Hello @gr5,


    Thank you very much for your reaction! I will definitely change the bed temp to 100 degrees celcius and try it again!


    Also, I try to keep the filament spool as dry as possible. We also have a filament dryer, so before I start printing again I will put it in the dryer for a few hours! 



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