Note that nylon has a few tricks so come back here with questions when you start printing.
Thanks for taking the time to share good info with me. So the max temp of 260c on the 2+ is sufficient for these nylon materials if I utilize your recommendations?
The feeder wasn't something which I considered so that was certainly good to learn.
255C is a good temperature for Nylon. I don't think there is ever any need to go higher than 260C. But you can get a version of Marlin that goes higher. I'm sure the um2+ heater can get above 260C no problem but if not then you could get a higher wattage heater.
I guess the main issue is that the nylon insert can go bad faster. they are cheap - around $20. You can replace them every 400 hours of printing or so and learn how long they last and if you really want to you can buy an i2k from my store which will keep the nylon much cooler such that it lasts for several thousand hours. Or you could buy a 3rd party all metal hot end (but you can't print PLA with all metal hot ends and PLA is such a wonderful material).
Thanks again gr5. I'll check out your site and items.
Do you know if the UM3 can run the CC Core? There seems to be mixed information on this
Yes , the UM3 will run the CC core, though not officially supported. This is because the feeders are not hardened, and will wear when you use a lot of filled, abrasive, materials. You can upgrade the UM3 with 2 bondtech feeders, but unless you already have an UM3 this is a bit silly as it would bring you up to the price range of an S3 (which has the hardened feeder)
Appreciate the input Ultiarjan!
You will need to cover the front and I recommend also the top. There are covers for the printer that you can buy from for example printedsolid.com or you can just do what I do: put a clear plastic gallon ziploc on the front and a cardboard box on the top (the box that normally holds many reams of paper that are sitting around near photocopiers). That box - the photocopy paper box - is the perfect size for the top of a UM2. Zero modification. You barely need any tape. It just sits there perfectly.
Yes you need a ruby if you print CF or glass fill. And you probably need to upgrade the feeder at some point. The sharp points inside the gnurled wheel in the feeder can get worn down and if they do then get a bondtech feeder. If you get a UM2+ then you can get the cheaper (and better) option: the DDG. About $95.
I recommend 0.6mm ruby/sapphire as they are less likely to clog with filled filaments. The 3dsolex rubies are nice in that they have dual passages inside to more thoroughly heat up the filament.
I sell 3dsolex rubies and DDG for UM2+ at thegr5store.com.
It doesn't matter much that CO is dry - well it helps - but you will still probably want to keep your spools of nylon in a 2 gallon zip lock (one bag for every one or two spools) along with dessicant when not in use. I like this dessicant as you can recharge it in the microwave:
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