Great,
I hate how real printed part dont look anything like the marketing stuff in terms of finish. Maybe also be the "Clear" I am not a fan of that color in FDM printers.
Otherwise this is great info my friend and seems to be a success for you.
Great,
I hate how real printed part dont look anything like the marketing stuff in terms of finish. Maybe also be the "Clear" I am not a fan of that color in FDM printers.
Otherwise this is great info my friend and seems to be a success for you.
Yeah. I mean I wasn't going for a clear print, I don't care about that part, I needed the HDT and the FDA approval, if it would've been white it would've worked as well for me.
I'm sure you CAN get clear prints by printing at the right temp, right layer height and speed and so forth I just didn't bother trying.
Well, I tried once and it wasn't clear and my printer won't run much higher than 260*F for some reason so I gave it up.
I'll be trying Kodak's Nylon 12 next, I think that'll be the winner.
I get it, no bashing. I can wait till my HT arrives next week. I ordered black. Ill post something on there for comparison if you dont mind.
Haha, no problem.
Cool, I'll be curious to see how it works out. I'm sure it could be a very useful material and I'm sure I'll find a use for what I have left... Only about 600 grams of it, lol.
Go for it, I'll be happy to know.
I feel there's not enough information on various filaments and applications when it comes to 3D printing so It ends up with people (like me) having to experiment A LOT to get results and see what works and what doesen't so anything I test that's a bit more exotic, like Nylon or this colorfabb, I want to put the information out there so someone else can use it and they avoid having to go through the same process of buying 10 different rolls of material to see what works.
So by all means, be my guest and post your results here, the more the merrier.
Update.
The part lasted about a week or so before it failed, the layers started seperating and I think it's due to me not being able to print it hot enough.
Not a good filament for me with the printer I currently have.
Oh wow..
I don’t think you have layer shift happening. I think you have a bit of underextrusion and are printing too fast, especially with a .3mm layer thickness. That fluctuation in part outline corresponding with changes in layer geometry suggests you are at the limits of the rate the material can be melted and pushed out.
i would try it at 50-75% speed and 0.15mm layer height. That will likely make it less likely to break.
Could be.
Regardless I don't think I'm running it hot enough as it seems the layer adhesion is not too great once I picked up the broken part.
Nylon 12 so far is working much better for me and it prints at 240*C which I can easily do, so I'll probably stick with that.
Also, running 0.15MM layer height would double the time it takes to print, currently I can print 4 of these in a night, takes about 13 hours, if I cut the layer height in half, it'll be 24 hours or more.
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Oliveros 11
Some pictures
On the bed.
Cleaned up.
One problem I'm having is right here, it's not remaining smooth for some reason and is very prone to cracking right in that area.
Then there seems to be some sort of layer shift or something but the objects did not move on the bed.
Installed
Little bit of flex
Lots of stringing and the layer shift is a problem I need to solve.
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