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johnse

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johnse last won the day on October 11

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  1. If you are using other people’s designs, that is a good way of getting around problems. You can install the Mesh Tools Cura plug-in from the Cura marketplace and it will warn you of these kinds of errors. if you start making your own designs, I would recommend Fusion 360. The personal use license is free and it is a good CAD program with lots of tutorials and a good community. Some other programs, like Sketchup and Blender, make it very easy to get problematic designs.
  2. Depending on how that web site constructs the geometry, I’m not surprised with there being problems. Fonts are designed primarily for rendering on a 2D surface where overlapping shapes do not matter. So the loops likely are defined by curves that cross through the stem. Naively extruding that shape into 3D leaves an area that intersects with itself, causing internal geometry which causes the slicer to confuse what is inside vs outside the solid.
  3. To just make these printable, you can use service.netfabb.com (free with registration). What program are you using to generate the letter models? To understand how to create better models in the first place, we need to know how you made them.
  4. Those are (mostly) not “stringing”, but antennae. Caused by totally different things. Those offshoots are caused by a drop of ooze building up during the move between the columns. When the nozzle gets to the next section, the drop hits the old layer and deposits there. When it comes to that spot again next layer, the drop deposits on the previous blob. Hence the outward and upward growth of the antenna. Stringing is where the material does not leave the prior part cleanly, and a thin string connects between two sections. You see some of those between the part and antennae. Try fine tuning retraction. Too much can be as bad as too little since you don’t want to suck air up into the melt reservoir.
  5. Can you post a .3mf file for these parts (File Save, not Export). this will wrap up the part and all the settings so folks can see what might be wrong. Also, what printer, and what material are you using?
  6. The prime tower is sometimes useful. I do not usually use it with PLA. Sometimes will with nylon. That the prime tower broke may indicate that your layer bonding is low...possibly printing too cold. try some with and without and see if you find enough difference.
  7. The first is typical if a section breaks away. All further layers printed over that area are printing on air, producing spaghetti or birds nests... the second looks about normal for PVA.
  8. I'm suggesting using a raft as the support buffer. But if you really just want to raise the model, look in Preferences. There is a setting "Automatically drop models to the build plate" that is enabled by default.
  9. Are you printing with a single material? Or with a dual extruder with the support being the 2nd material? If I slice it for dual printing, it produces support for the lower part of the fillet. If I slice for single material, it shows the brim going right up to the base, but then there is a gap before the support of the central area. This is because of the x/y offset from edges. The typical settings for support are for overhangs that are more than a 60° angle from vertical. Your fillet would only want support for 1-2 layers before the angle is less than that. Support also leaves a little space between the top of support and the bottom of the thing being supported so that it is easier to remove the support. Thus, there's not really room to print any support other than the brim. If you dial the support angle to an absurdly low number, like 10°, then it will show a small amount of support.
  10. Try taking a look at Raft settings: Select "Raft" under Build Plate Adhesion Type "raft" into the settings search, this will bring up all the settings that have "raft" in the name.
  11. I’m not at a computer with Cura right now, but you can tell Cura which extruder to use for each model. I *think* it is on the right-click context menu.
  12. @Kakos my understanding of what you are trying to do is make a vase with, say, 2 or 3 walls, and that the prior way you did that was to model, for example, a 5mm wall but then print with zero infil causing the wall to be hollow. But that also means the wall would grow to 10mm thick if you doubled the size of the vase. Hopefully I got that right. Another way to consider is: design the vase as a solid form. Not modeling the inside surface...only the outside. slice it with 0% infill, 2 walls, however many layers (or thickness) you want for the bottom, and 0 top layers. This will print exactly 2 walls, well bonded, a bottom, and no top. It also means that even with a complex wall shape, every slice will have exactly the number of walls you specify. The “Shell” command in Fusion 360 (don’t know what it’s called in other programs) is often used to creat constant thickness walls for this kind of model, but it creates a model where the distance is constant along the normals of each oint on the surface. A simple mold, for example, with a 10 degree slope and a shell 1.6mm thick produces a thickness in the slicing planes slightly less than 1.6mm...1.576mm. This can cause it to slice with, for example 3 walls instead of 4, and then try to fill the gap as infil.
  13. I had to hunt for it initially. select the object you want to orient. choose the rotation tool on the left column of buttons. theres now a 3rd option on the rotation tool. Click the rightmost button. Notice the rotation tool circles disappear from around the part. click on the face you want on the build plate
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