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johnse last won the day on October 11 2019

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3 (Ext)

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  1. I got it from Spool3D. Flexion found a different filament manufacturer to work with and it is more available now. TPU - 60A - 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament | Spool3D Canada
  2. I am also wondering if it is abrasive? Does it need hardened nozzle & feeder?
  3. You don’t create designs in Cura. All of the critical dimensions (nozzle size, layer heights, etc.) are in mm across the 3D printing community. where other units matter is in design software, like Fusion 360, Freecad, or TinkerCad, to name a few. Those design systems allow you to design in whatever units are best for you (though if you design in inches and enter a dimension as 15/64”, it will show as the decimal equivalent 0.234375”. In that same software simply set the STL export units to mm (STL files are dimensionless). And, BTW, I am also in the US, and grew up on inches & feet. But I do 99%of my designing in metric.
  4. In my quick searching I found the Ultimate 2 is a Weedo F150S, but I did not find info on nozzle type.
  5. Your printer is also known as the Malyan m200 v2. here is info on the nozzles: https://www.mpselectmini.com/parts/nozzle
  6. There are several Monoprice printers, made by different companies (Monoprice rebadges the printers). So before we can answer, we need to know the full model name.
  7. If you think about the three point leveling, the back screw is only going to adjust the owner all angle front-to-back. if the back left corner is too high, that means the front right corner may be too low, causing the bed to pivot around the axis from the front left screw to the back center screw. Another thing that could be happening is your gantry rods may not be parallel with the bed, and if the angle changes front to back, due to rods not firmly attached to the belts for example, that could make leveling nearly impossible. Check for any play in any of the rods and confirm they are properly aligned.
  8. Search for Cura on GitHub. That’s where bug reports are best submitted (in the issues tab)
  9. I haven’t used that brand, but I’ve found with Ultimaker Nylon that I have to use glue and a brim for long pieces.
  10. The typical slicing strategy is to alternate directions so the layers cross at 90 degree angles on alternating layers. Only the wall lines print atop each other, and trying to offset those would cause a rough outer surface.
  11. I don’t think you have layer shift happening. I think you have a bit of underextrusion and are printing too fast, especially with a .3mm layer thickness. That fluctuation in part outline corresponding with changes in layer geometry suggests you are at the limits of the rate the material can be melted and pushed out. i would try it at 50-75% speed and 0.15mm layer height. That will likely make it less likely to break.
  12. I think it is in cases where one or more edges of your model print on top of the edge of support. For example, an overhang, or a long bridge. Support is meant to bond weakly to the primary material, so if you try to print right at the edge it can sometimes cause problems. in your case above, most of the support was surrounded by walls.
  13. You need to turn off supports. That’s what the light blue indicates. As for pausing, I’ve done the same thing but for some reason it only works when specifying the height by layer number.
  14. That axle is just an idler, so moving the gear one tooth on the belt shouldn’t be a problem. The curious thing is that you didn’t have this problem last time you set it. Is the matching gear on the other end of the rod also foo in the same manner?
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