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First of all - you can't just print an existing gcode file with a mismatched nozzle. You need to slice specifically with a 0.25mm line width.
So I'm guessing what happened is it was trying to cram too much filament through that tiny nozzle and eventually it ground down the filament at the feeder. That's one theory. Another theory is that the nozzle was too far above the glass plate. If filament isn't sticking to the glass plate, try pushing up gently with your finger on the bed and if it starts working then you can just turn the 3 screws CCW (looking from below) 1/2 turn or so to raise it a bit.
In general you want to print really small things - usually things smaller than 1cm (half inch) with the 0.25mm nozzle. You can do line widths down to 0.2mm and still get decent quality. Usually I have to print 3 or even 7 objects such that each one has time to cool while printing the others. You might want to lower the bed temp to around 50C if the prints are coming out a bit blobby. And print slow - like 25mm/sec or even slower. You want max possible fan - it might help to have a desk fan blowing some air into the front of the printer. And print on the cool side - lower nozzle temp by 5C or so versus normal.
In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
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gr5 2,005
First of all - you can't just print an existing gcode file with a mismatched nozzle. You need to slice specifically with a 0.25mm line width.
So I'm guessing what happened is it was trying to cram too much filament through that tiny nozzle and eventually it ground down the filament at the feeder. That's one theory. Another theory is that the nozzle was too far above the glass plate. If filament isn't sticking to the glass plate, try pushing up gently with your finger on the bed and if it starts working then you can just turn the 3 screws CCW (looking from below) 1/2 turn or so to raise it a bit.
In general you want to print really small things - usually things smaller than 1cm (half inch) with the 0.25mm nozzle. You can do line widths down to 0.2mm and still get decent quality. Usually I have to print 3 or even 7 objects such that each one has time to cool while printing the others. You might want to lower the bed temp to around 50C if the prints are coming out a bit blobby. And print slow - like 25mm/sec or even slower. You want max possible fan - it might help to have a desk fan blowing some air into the front of the printer. And print on the cool side - lower nozzle temp by 5C or so versus normal.
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