So here are my tests and impressions about dual extrusion:
As I said in another post, the wiki is very good, just lack the fact that you need to update the firmware.
The only problem I have is visible in this picture:
It seems my long screw are too short, making the plates not horinzontal at all. It's printing like that, but it doesn't look professional at all :???:. I was wondering about shortening the 2 black plastic spacers to give more space so that I get a more leveled plates. Any problems with that ?
It seems, like 3Dcase said it that the second hot end Diameter is not taken in account by cura (13.11.2) I had underextrusion problem with my filament in head 2 and no way to solve it by lowering the diameter. But increasing the flow solved it (and no big trouble with over extrusion of hotend1).
For calibration I used this : https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-extrusion-calibration-and-first-test, it's easy with a caliper to get the approximate offset, here you can see the first print and after calibration:
Now that I understood this under extrusion problem and the use of ooze shield and wipe tower, I will post soon my first real print.
Well..
I should talk you into printing this thing. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-printhead :cool:.
But that's up to you..
If you need longer bolts or something anyhow, you might as well, try the next best simple thing to get a more solid and stable printhead.
Buy a piece of threaded M3 rod. ca. 4 times the length of the long bolts +15mm.
Find 12 M3 nuts with a few washers, ( spare ones from your kit).
From the bottom up:
4 pieces of M3 rod in the Aluminum Plate.
A nut on each rod to clamp the 6 mm wooden bottom plate against the aluminium, to keep the Teflon in the hotends and isolators.
On top of the first nut a second one. will be on the bottom of the 4mm piece of wood.
the 4 roads go up trough the printhead. on the topplate you put the 3rd nut.
Now you can clamp the printhead together separately from the hotends. and move the for rods up and down the printhead by adjusting he nuts.
The adjustments will last a lot longer. because the hotends always seem to hit something of the print.
The tension in the filament will not move the nozzle anymore.
You might loose 3mm more in printing height. because of the 2 nuts in between the alu and wooden plate
So check your Z endswitch!
Suc6
H
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Dim3nsioneer 558
As you have a 3D printer, there is an alternative to shorten the spacers... :wink:
I printed mines 1 or 2 millimeter shorter and now the bottom plate is more or less horizontal...
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